Cheesemakers celebrate at Surf & Sand Resort

DINING REVIEW

The scene was simply splendiferous. Surrounded by the shimmering

Pacific Ocean under clear blue skies, tables sparkled with iridescent

teal blue covers, matching napkins sprouting above one of the proud

parade of wine stems. A shining lineup of polished silverware

completed the magnificent setting. This memorable celebration was

held atop the sprawling Catalina deck at Surf & Sand Resort,

culminating a four-month series of Cheesemakers’ dinners featured

earlier this year at Splashes, the hotel’s beautiful beachfront

restaurant.

The event was designed to honor the 200-year-old California cheese

industry, known to lead the nation as prime maker of cow’s milk

cheeses. It was especially interesting to note that this industry

boasts in excess of 60 producers who create an amazing 200 varieties

of artisan cheeses, some of which earned an unparalleled 30 awards at

the American Cheese Society’s national competition last year.

That cheese devotees are a dedicated group was made clear by the

delighted reactions of an enthusiastic entourage who avidly grasped

every thought advanced by executive chef Christopher Blobaum, in

addition to the several California cheesemakers who shared varied

experiences and explained fascinating details of their craft.

A bountiful arrangement of Farmstead Artisan cheeses reposed under

a small tent, tempting wedges and rounds interspersed with the lively

color and texture of assorted fruits and green and purple grape

clusters.

Arriving guests sipped white wine and nibbled on a variety of

appetizers presented by attentive servers while awaiting the five

enticing courses to come with compatibly chosen wines. Crunchy corn

and cheese fritters, tiny caviar-topped purple potatoes, little glass

cups of rich tomato broth and various tasty cheese bites were among

tempting nibbles preceding the elegant dinner.

Blobaum’s artistically orchestrated bill of fare gave testimony to

how a certain, well-chosen cheese will add an exciting new dimension

to any given dish. For example, the first course of Three Sisters

Serena enhanced a deliciously creamy carnaroli risotto sided with

tomatoes and basil. Next Bravo Farms queso d’oro cheddar added a

tangy punch to the refreshing endive salad laced with crunchy apple

slices and candied walnuts. An appropriate pairing of Winchester

super aged gouda provided a fine cheese accent to the distinctive

entree that offered perfectly pink slices of tender Summerfield rack

of lamb crusted with panco crumbs and thyme complemented with organic

baby carrots and wild arugula under a subtle glaze of mint oil.

Obviously no gourmet repast is complete without dessert and chef

Blobaum came through here with flying colors, showcasing Harley Farms

goat cheese panna cotta accented with almond tuile and fennel sorbet

for a tantalizing sweet contrast.

Further, as an epicurean finale to this “Elite Tasters Tribute,”

velvety Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk arrived, prettily sided with

organic strawberries enhanced with aged balsamic vinaigrette. The

success of this unusual evening was loudly registered in the sincere

applause following the phenomenally unique feast.

NEWS BITES

Another local dining occasion festively winding up the last days

of April was the launching at restaurant hush of its first in a

proposed series of monthly winemaker dinners. Presented on the

lavishly appointed patio, tables sparkled with crystal wine stems and

silver place settings, each bearing a clear square centerpiece

floating plump green grapes and big yellow orchid blossoms.

The scintillating event was astutely coordinated by charming

LeeAnn Kaufman, the extraordinarily knowledgeable sommelier at hush.

Exceptional vintages of Paso Robles’ renowned Justin Vineyards &

Winery set the pace for this gourmet repast.

The casually convivial evening was further enhanced with the

musical arrangements of talented Lagunan Kevin Kirkpatrick and

informal narration by the winery’s Western regional sales manager,

Steve Lister.

Arriving guests were graciously greeted with welcoming stems of

2002 sauvignon blanc. Intriguing appetizers of tiny sesame sprinkled

cones filled with ahi tartare and nuggets of creamy foi gras were

some of the delectable preludes to the succulent veal tenderloin

entree, among five fascinating courses that followed. For information

on the next wine dinner, call 497-3616.

* GLORI FICKLING is a long time Laguna Beach resident who has been

writing restaurant news and views columns for newspapers and

magazines since 1966. For suggestions and questions about this

column, e-mail ghoneywest @aol.com or phone 494-4710.