Freshly and picky in Tandoori

Doug Tabbert

It’s difficult to find chefs to work with head chef and co-owner of

Bukhara, Gogi Sandher, explains his wife and co-owner Baljeet

Sandher.

“He is so picky,” she said before releasing a lilting chuckle.

They have been operating this authentic Indian restaurant for

almost 20 years.

Not only are all the dishes made to order, but each curry,

vegetable, yogurt and mint sauce is prepared daily. Other restaurants

incline toward partial or complete preparation on a weekly basis,

only requiring reheating or superficial adjustments.

It would be difficult to blame other chefs for opting for another

kitchen; this one is partially partitioned by glass, which leaves the

kitchen staff vulnerable to the watchful gaze of Gogi, as well as to

the curious stares from patrons.

Baljeet brought out some warm Kabli Naan ($3.95), pronounced nawn,

just baked in the Tandoori, or clay oven. This leavened pita bread

was lightly sprinkled with pistachios, cashews and pieces of

cherries. This was the bomb naan. There are several types of less

sweet Indian breads to enjoy as well.

Thinking I was hedging my bets on the appetizer, I ordered the

mixed d’ourves, a platter full of chicken Tikka, a samosa, seekh

kabob (pieces of lamb), and vegetable pakoras that was served with a

cool mint sauce for dipping, which enhanced the samplings. The

samosa, a crisp-fried pastry filled with mildly spiced potatoes and

peas was exotic but familiar, something of a giant gourmet French

fry, and quite scrumptious with the dark tamarind sauce. The pakoras

are deep-fried dumplings, cauliflower and potato and only noteworthy

in their blandness. Unfortunately, the chicken breast was not only

boneless, but tasteless too. The supposed fresh spices that the

smoked fowl was marinated in were scant at best. In short, I am not

itching to try my luck in Vegas.

I asked for Baljeet’s advice on the entree. He recommended the

Lamb Pasanda ($12.95), which comes with long, grained basmati rice.

Baljeet, who doesn’t eat meat, adores the creamy, yet spicy, green

curry, consisting of yogurt, cream, coriander, slivers of almonds and

cilantro. I don’t adore it just yet, but it was delicious. Curiously,

the tender-sliced lamb in this heavy dish had a different texture

than the minced lamb cooked on skewers with its sausage-like

consistency, which is due to the different marinades used. The

dynamic taste found in the dishes at Bukhara result from Gogi’s acute

attention to details and high standards.

The benefits of meticulousness in the kitchen are savored by their

patrons every day of the week, who sometimes end up waiting for a

table in the soft pink and blue, modestly formal restaurant without a

dinner or brunch reservation. However the expansive menu is also

available for to-go orders.

There are between 15 and 20 items available at the unlimited

buffet during lunch on the weekdays ($6.95) and the champagne brunch

($9.95) on the weekends. There are several vegetarian options to

choose from, such as roasted eggplant, cooked okra and cubes of

Indian cheese in a thick tomato, garlic and ginger sauce.