Eva’s Caribbean Kitchen a festive dining destination

Glori Fickling

To savor the many faceted flavors of Caribbean cuisine augmented with

the colorful atmosphere of that exotic land, an enticing adventure

awaits right here in our own backyard. You have only to meet

enchanting Eva Madray, who took over the Caribbean Kitchen on South

Coast Highway two years ago, to discover one of the most fascinating

dining destinations.

Although the restaurant was initially conceived in 1995, receiving

instant accolades, it has become even more remarkable since dynamic

Eva took the helm. In short, her vivacious presence in the dining

room makes every repast a memorable experience.

Flickering candles are everywhere, illuminating hot pink walls

festooned with a riot of artifacts that set the festive mood for

Eva-style Island dining. And Eva does it all personally, from

browsing the L.A. fish markets at 5 a.m. daily to score the freshest

seafood available, to bouncing happily from table to table nightly

catering to each guest’s every whim. Typical of her enthusiasm was a

recent overheard request when asked what more did one table wish as

desserts were consumed. To the patron’s utter surprise, her reply to

the request of a good cigar, was an immediate response as she

magically produced the wanted stogie.

While cook Miguel Rivera heads the kitchen domain, all the recipes

are the creation our hostess, including the decadent “Evamade”

desserts. Beyond these, she has conceived the most extensive libation

list this side of the Caribbean. This translates to two pages of

alcoholic beverages including almost a dozen beers, well over two

dozen wines including 13 by the glass and, not least, some 50

varieties of rum which all but beg to be offered as contemporary

“flights” or tasting choices.

Next come six appetizers, a trio of salads and a full dozen

entrees. The latter are marked with three stars for spicy, four stars

for spicier. Indigenous to Caribbean recipes are plantains, peas and

rice which accompany most entrees as do fresh sauteed vegetables.

Likewise are such embellishments as pineapple/mango and passion fruit

salsas, pungent seasonings of garlic, chili, shallots, thyme and, of

course, potent Cajun spices.

For ultimate enjoyment of this adventuresome menu, best to gather

a party-minded group and share the dishes family style. Perhaps start

with that delectably garlic-infused Caesar salad studded with baked

croutons, $5; Bahama conch/sweet corn fritters sided with fruit

relish at $12; Cajun prawns seared in a black skillet with a

four-star spicing, $9.95; and flame roasted eggplant sauteed with

shallots, chilies and onions on toasted pita, $9.

But certain to capture your fancy are those tempting rum

cocktails, ready to enjoy while awaiting these intriguing beginnings.

The mango tango is a perfect sweet-tart blend of rum and mango juice.

The rum cosmos combines triple sec, cranberry juice and a lime

squeeze. For vodka aficionados, Grey Goose orange vodka is blended

with Cointreau, cranberry juice and lime. Cocktails are tabbed at

$6.50 to $9; rum shots are $7 to $20.

And the best is yet to come. Consider cornmeal-crusted Louisiana

catfish zested with Bacardi limon; Creole style orange roughy stewed

in voodoo sauce; three-star spicy blackened Atlantic salmon dished up

with passion fruit, mango and grilled pineapple/ pimiento relish.

Jerk steak is a four-star spiced rib-eye perked with

pineapple-pimiento chutney. Jerk chicken is presented as one half a

bird grilled to tender juiciness with three-star degrees of heat and

sweet mango chutney.

A three-star rating goes to curry prawns sauteed with garlic,

cumin and katchula, the latter made with marinated green mangos. Then

there is succulent spinach tossed with sauteed onions for a

delectable accent to a thick snowy slab of halibut. These are priced

at $17.99 to $19.99, some served with rice, garlic mashed or blended

purple potatoes.

Your sweet tooth will probably crave a sinful dessert after all

this wild spiciness. Thus, at $3.50 to $7, we have pineapple coconut

ice cream, guava cheesecake, chocolate bread pudding, rum soaked

peach cobbler, bananas flambe and more. Not to miss is the

wonderfully light West Indian key lime pie prepared with an eggless,

no-butter crust, then crowned with a halo of yummy, freshly whipped

cream.

NEWS BITES

On June 6 civic minded entrepreneur Jon Madison is once again

sponsoring a get acquainted party for Friends of Laguna Beach

Community Clinic. This second annual celebration at his Madison

Square and Garden Cafe, is designed to recruit new members and

introduce to the public some of the vital services and support the

Clinic has been accomplishing to help people suffering health and

financial stress. There is no charge for the 5 to 7 p.m. reception

that will feature festive music, hors d’oeuvres, wine and dessert.

For more information, call (949) 494-0761 ext. 106.

Happiness continues at Laguna’s lovely Montage Resort and Spa.

Dinner is now being served alfresco style at popular Mosaic. The

lushly landscaped poolside cafe was formerly available only for

breakfast and lunch. Details on this at a later date, or call (949)

715-6000.