Restaurant still ‘Ritz’-y

Greer Wylder

Don’t be surprised to see kosher hot dogs, barbecued baby-back ribs,

huevos rancheros and a “grand slam” breakfast of hot cakes, eggs and

bacon. This isn’t another chalkboard list of specials at your local

all-night coffee shop; they’re the new dishes served at one of

Newport’s most elegant restaurants, The Ritz.

The late, beloved Hans Prager, who founded The Ritz Restaurant,

carefully chose Las Vegas legend Fred Glusman, of Piero’s restaurant

fame, as his successor. Prager knew Glusman shared his passion for

The Ritz and would be the perfect owner.

For 22 years, Glusman has owned Piero’s, the perennial upscale

Italian food hangout for Las Vegas locals, politicians and

celebrities. A scene from Martin Scorsese’s film “Casino” was shot

there, and the star-filled cast of “Oceans Eleven” dined at Piero’s

during its Las Vegas shoot.

Piero’s Italian Cuisine predates the flurry of hip and

celebrity-chef-driven restaurants that are now the scene in Las

Vegas. Even with world-class dining choices to compete with, Piero’s

remains a popular destination. Glusman offers five-star service,

award-winning cuisine and an inviting atmosphere.

In 2002, the changing of the guard took place.

Despite critics of the new regime -- critics who claim that

Glusman changed the classic Ritz experience that Prager created --

the top service, award-winning dining and the memorable, extravagant

atmosphere remains. Glusman hasn’t spoiled the first-class appeal of

the restaurant. There’s the same extensive continental cuisine,

award-winning wine list and familiar over-the-top decor. There are

Georgian and classic crown moldings, oak wainscoting, brass sconces

and massive chandeliers. Other semi-formal touches include oversize

floral bouquets, beveled mirrors and an Escoffier Room, dedicated to

the king of French chefs.

Most of Prager’s original staff are still here.

“They’re just trying new things to make the Ritz a more happening

place to go,” Sandy Gold, the assistant manager, said. “There’s a

perception that nothing is the same, whereas everything is the same;

there’s just more variety.”

Most employees have worked here 15 to 20 years. Even Hans Prager’s

executive chef, Lupe Camarena, from the original Ritz Restaurant that

opened in 1977 at the Newport Pier, still oversees the kitchen.

Glusman, along with the restaurant’s dedicated staff, is in the

midst of shedding some of the special-occasion-only persona that

sticks to The Ritz. They’ve compiled an attractive list of compelling

reasons to visit The Ritz, any night of the week. Not just for a

Christmas dinner or a once-in-a-lifetime golden wedding anniversary.

The new dining options were added to appeal to guests who want a

relaxed atmosphere, while the sophisticated, fussy and private rooms

are still available daily.

Stop by The Ritz on Thursdays for “Martinis in The Ritz Garden”

from 5 to 7 p.m. The covered outdoor and heated garden seats 50 to

100. Revolving guest liquor companies offer four unique martinis at

$4 each. The martinis are smaller than classic martinis served from

the bar, so that you can sample a few while having a nice time

listening to contemporary jazz (until 10 p.m.) and sampling

complimentary hors d’ oeuvres. You can also order any item off the

regular dinner menu.

“Music under the Stars” in the garden happens Fridays from 6:30 to

11 p.m. and Saturdays from 8 to 11:30 p.m. A contemporary music combo

offers a large repertoire of requests from disco to classics. The

“Late Night Breakfast” at The Ritz is offered every Thursday, Friday

and Saturday from 10 p.m. to midnight. The breakfast menu includes

creamed chipped beef on toast; scrambled eggs, lox and onions served

with Mr. G’s potatoes; and Matzo brei (similar to French toast) with

applesauce and jam ($14.95 each).

There’s also steak and eggs with Mr. G’s potatoes ($19.95). During

sports seasons, the current NBA finals or the fall’s NFL football

games, there’s a barbecue menu served outside, where sports fans can

watch games on two flat-screen plasma televisions. Glusman flies in

excellent Kosher hot dogs from New York ($7.50). There’s also a

“Famous Ritz” burger ($10.50); or try a choice of barbecue baby-back

ribs, barbecue chicken or ribs and chicken combo ($19.95). Side

dishes include peanut coleslaw and baked beans. During any of the

garden events, you can also have the choice of ordering from the

regular dinner menu.

Dinner and lunch menus also were freshened up. Glusman added

word-of-mouth nightly specials (not printed on the menu) including

soft-shell crab, Florida stone crab flown in daily and his

award-winning osso bucco recipe from Piero’s. The in-season salad

features a live hydroponic (a space-saving growing method) butter

lettuce salad. Other inherited menu items from Piero’s include

exceptional salads. There’s Piero’s haricot verts salad with fresh

baby green beans, shaved Maui onions, teardrop tomatoes, mushrooms

and walnuts tossed in a cassis mustard vinaigrette drizzled in walnut

oil ($9.50). Piero’s special salad features diced jumbo prawns on a

bed of fanned avocado with mustard vinaigrette ($13.50); and a beet

salad with layers of organic tomato, beets and mozzarella and cassis

mustard ($9.50).

For Father’s Day, a brunch menu is offered from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The prix-fixe menu features a choice of six appetizers that include

seasonal berries with creme fraiche; wafer-sliced “parma” prosciutto

and melon; and Rock shrimp gazpacho laced with Cuervo gold tequila.

Ten selections of hot or cold entrees to choose from include poached

eggs Benedict, with home-fried potatoes; bone-in pork chops with

sauteed red and green peppers, onions and potatoes; “carne asada” of

prime sirloin with huevos Mexicanos, rice and refried beans; and

crisp Maryland lump crab cake with roasted tomato coulis. Dessert

sampler and coffee are included. $40 per person.

Open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday to Friday. Open for

dinner 6. to 10 p.m., Monday to Thursday; 5:30 to 11 p.m., Friday and

Saturday; and 5 to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

880 Newport Center Drive in Newport Beach. (949) 720-1800.

www.ritzrestaurant.com

The Balboa Bay Club & Resort hosts the spectacular Newport Beach

Food and Wine Festival today through Sunday. The event features

international fine wines, gourmet cuisine, spirits and cigars.

Guests can enjoy tastings, seminars and dining opportunities

during the four-day festival. A partial list of scheduled

participants includes Spanish chef Julian Serrano of Picasso in Las

Vegas; Alsatian winemaker Hubert Trimbach; Max McCalman, from

Picholine and Artisanal restaurants in New York City; and master

sommeliers Ira Harmon, Emmanuel Kamiji, Ron Mumford and Robert Smith.

The culinary team at The Balboa Bay Club will also participate in

the event. Proceeds from the festival benefit the Jean-Louis Palladin

Foundation for culinary arts and the Balboa Bay Club’s 1221 Club

scholarship fund. A wine and art auction will also take place. Ticket

prices for each event vary from $40 to $110. Ticket purchases and

reservations can be made by calling (949) 630-4146. 1221 W. Coast

Highway in Newport Beach. www.balboabayclub.com.

Another wonderful epicurean event, The Summer Food & Wine

Festival, happens from 6 to 9 p.m., June 24 at South Coast Plaza’s

Crate & Barrel/Macy’s Home Store Wing. All proceeds from the annual

event benefit the Second Harvest Food Bank, Orange County’s largest

hunger relief organization, and Someone Cares Soup Kitchen in Costa

Mesa. The festival features excellent cuisine from South Coast Plaza

restaurants, premium wines and beers and live music. Tickets are $45

per person (purchased prior to June 21) and $55 at the door. An

opportunity drawing offers a chance to win a year of dining for two

(once a month) at 12 South Coast Plaza restaurants, among other

prizes. A partial list of participating restaurants, wineries and

breweries include Antonello Ristorante, Bangkok Four, Bluewater

Grill, Bodega Chocolates, Lawry’s Carvery, Morton’s of Chicago, Royal

Kyhber Fine Indian Dining, Hi-Time Wine Cellars, Louis Martini,

Rosemount Estate, Firestone Walker Brewing Company and Widmer

Hefeweizen. (714) 435-2171.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.