Caliente Southwest Grille still a thrill

Greer Wylder

Ric Flanagan always experimented with ingredients and recipes. At his

first hot spot, the Blues Cafe in Long Beach, Flanagan set up a taco

stand out front, and people raved about the fresh tacos.

At Caliente Southwest Grille, Flanagan created his vision of a

restaurant he would like to eat at. The gourmet fast-food restaurant

on East 17th Street in Costa Mesa has a Southwest theme with a blend

of Spanish, Native American and Mexican cuisine.

“It’s the kind of place you can easily get in and out of,”

Flanagan said. “And with no waitresses, I can sell food at about half

the price.”

The tiny restaurant doesn’t suit lingerers, with only six tables

and a counter space; it’s mostly a take-out spot. Fresh and expensive

ingredients are his kitchen secrets.

“It’s a small place for the volume we produce, so there’s no room

for storage,” Flanagan said. “We have to buy fresh ingredients every

day. And we use queso fresco that’s three times as expensive as jack

cheese, but the taste makes a big difference.”

Flanagan also attributes Caliente’s success -- they do 300 lunches

and 250 dinners, of which 68% are take-out, on an average day -- to

the variety of sauces. Unlike most quick-serve restaurants, Caliente

has one chef, who makes all the sauces, including zesty chipotle

tartar, quemada cream, green tomatillo sauce, and apache sauce. Five

fresh salsas also are made daily.

Trial and error, cookbooks and a friend’s input helped shape

Caliente’s hit menu.

“My Blue Moon chicken salad put me on the map,” Flanagan said.

He’s referring to his own creation and one of Costa Mesa’s best

salads. It’s a combination of sliced grilled chicken, romaine,

crumbled blue cheese, sliced granny smith apples, pepitas, fresh

mango relish, queso fresco and creamy pepita citrus dressing ($6.45).

Flanagan said Caliente makes carnitas the old-fashion way, boiled

in oil, then quickly fried right before it goes out. That way,

carnitas won’t retain grease. Caliente serves carnitas in tacos

($1.99) and in a burrito with pico de gallo and guacamole ($4.85).

Caliente also thrills diners with its best carnitas, in a platter

that’s cooked in banana leaves, then topped with pico de gallo,

guacamole and cilantro. It’s served with Tex-Mex black beans, rice

and either corn or flour tortillas ($6.50).

Other great dish choices includes flautas, either chicken or steak

versions, served with fire-roasted chipotle dipping sauce, sour

cream, guacamole, pico de gallo, lettuce and queso fresco ($5.15).

Their excellent sweet corn cake includes unbelievably fattening

ingredients, but it’s worth it ($1.75). There are also a variety of

imaginative salads, burritos, quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas and

daily specials. Each dish has distinct and robust flavors from exotic

chiles, special seasonings and made-from-scratch sauces.

Health-conscious diners will have an easy time ordering here.

Flanagan says it’s a naturally low-carb-friendly menu, and there are

even low-carb specials including its tortillas soup -- a gourmet

chicken base with chicken breast meat, yellow and green squash,

celery, cheese, onion, cilantro, carrot and corn strips. The healthy

rellenos avoid the typical fried-egg batter. Instead, the poblano

chile gets baked and fire roasted, stuffed with cheeses, mango relish

and served with Tex-Mex black beans and rice. Other healthy choices

include fresh, grilled mahi-mahi tacos ($3.05) or burritos ($5.88) or

Southwest herb-rubbed salmon served in tacos ($3.85).

Owning two Caliente restaurants, one in Costa Mesa and the other

in Lake Forest, is just one of his endeavors. The energetic Flanagan

flip-flops back and forth between Hawaii and Orange County

constantly.

“My heart is in Hawaii,” he said. “I keep getting drawn there.”

He also owns Dr. Greenery, a plant-rental business in Huntington

Beach. He’s working on opening a Latin music club and restaurant in

Los Angeles and has been developing a five-star resort in Hawaii on

Kauai’s east shore for the past eight years.

“It’s not like any place on Hawaii; its emphasis is on total

privacy,” Flanagan said. “It’s what a honeymoon vacation spot should

be.”

Even with the possibility of expanding Caliente, Flanagan

continues with his thriving and fledgling businesses. Caliente’s

catering service is booked solid for graduation parties. Caliente can

cater parties from 25 to 500 guests and has a special catering buffet

menu that’s just $11.95 per person. Along with three choices of

Southwest dishes, the price includes West Texas beans, Mexican rice,

tri-color chips, salsa, guacamole and sweet corn cake. Also provided

at no additional cost: a table with heating trays, serving utensils,

delivery, set-up and decor for buffet.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.