Mandarin King, a 20-year success

Glori Fickling

It is always a pleasure to hear from an enthusiastic restaurant fan.

An e-mail from an appreciative Marcia Jager has inspired this review

of an Oriental venue I had long forgotten.

It is nice to note that Mandarin King, situated far north on Coast

Highway, will celebrate a 20-year success come Sept. 1. The

store-front establishment is the popular concept of gracious Glenn Fu

and his dedicated sister-in-law Lily Chao. Thanks to creative chef

Tan, who joined the family venture almost 10 years ago, the

picturesque dishes distinguish the tempting bill of fare.

Upon entering Mandarin King, the colorful array of pastel-colored

napkins sprouting atop the tables sets a bit of a party mood against

the rather sparse background. A large circular glass-wall etching

depicting exotic trees is the single livening accent between

adjoining rooms. It is chef Tan’s unique embellishment of various

dishes that makes up for the absence of the sort of framed-art usual

in our local restaurants.

Among daily specials, a deliciously simple appetizer of chicken

lettuce wraps rests on a large platter. The four servings are

enhanced with an island of palm trees shaped from curved carrots

bearing jaggedly sculpted green bell peppers upturned to form

umbrella leaves. The pair, sprouting a parsley sprig base, are posed

atop a large onion floating on a surf of crispy, white, rice noodles.

Similarly dressed are several other dishes for which Tan sculpts

bright orange carrots into perky shapes as colorful complement to

other dishes.

Beyond extensive a la carte lunch and dinner selections, Mandarin

King offers a family style repast at $11.95 per person. This

commences with three-flavor, sizzling, rice soup and appetizers of

eggroll, fried wonton, pot stickers and paper wrapped chicken.

Entrees of Mongolian beef and garlic chicken serve two --

additions for three to seven guests start with sweet-and-sour shrimp

going to mu-shu pork, chicken with vegetables, assorted vegetables

and lemon chicken.

An interesting twist is the availability of daily soup and

appetizers for an additional $3.75, which allows guests to enjoy a

complete dinner with any entree. Further is the auxiliary menu, which

changes periodically. Recent choices were variations of eggplant --

succulent chunks in hot garlic sauce at $7.95, lavished with ground

chicken for $8.95. Crisply sauteed asparagus was offered for $7.95,

with chicken, roast pork or barbecued pork at $8.95, with shrimp $3

more.

In the tradition of most Chinese restaurants, the entire menu is

available all day. Beginnings are similarly priced at lunch,

appetizers at $5.25 to $5.95 with a pupu assortment at $11.25; soups

for $3.55 a single serving, less than $6 for two, add $2 for four to

five persons, another $2 each for up to 10 guests.

Meat, poultry and seafood entrees including mu-shu, kung pao and

egg foo young dishes range from $8.25 to $11.75; vegetable, noodle,

chop suey and fried rice specials start at $2.55 with most less than

$8. Hot, spicy selections are prefaced with a red chili pepper

warning, and there are 15 complete lunches priced from $5.55 to

$6.25.

Compliments, too, for the meticulous packaging of take-out orders

placed in microwaveable cartons and neatly labeled, a good incentive

to over-order knowing leftovers will be simple to microwave as

delicious as the day served.

NEWS BITES

It has just come to my attention that charming Nadine Hotong, who

has been with French 75 for many years, was recently appointed

general manager of the prestigious Art Center restaurant.

Her position coincided with the opening of David Wilhelm’s

sophisticated Chat Noir in the Performing Arts Center where former

French 75 general manager Phil Roberson was transferred to take the

same position.

Roberson will also oversee opening of Rouge Bistro and Bar in

Fashion Island set to open officially on July 8 with two charity

benefits later in the month.

In her new position, Hotong is ably assisted by Bobby Quinton who

arrived by way of a popular San Diego food chain. Super mixologist

Neil Skewes continues at the cocktail helm where he has held the post

since 1998. You may phone French 75 at (949) 494-8444.

An interesting item for connoisseurs of premium vodkas is the news

that Stolichnaya has just introduced its newest product, the

exclusive Elit, which they say is carefully crafted using a

centuries-old Russian recipe and a patented freezing process that

goes through three levels of filtration to remove impurities.

Currently available only in California, the elegant elixir is now

being served exclusively at Sorrento Grill, our own popular dining

destination on Genneyre Street at Forest Avenue. Priced at $59.95

retail, Elit is termed “a small indulgence for discriminating

tastes.” For information on Sorrento Grill, call (949) 494-8686.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.