Laguna Beach Brewing Company offers up some enticing changes

Glori Fickling

One would never guess, from the happy enthusiasm and laughter that

prevails nightly at the Laguna Beach Brewing Company, that the place

has been in the throes of a major overhaul since the May 1 takeover

by Kasha Shahabi and partner Mohammad.

The credits of the enterprising Shahabi well belie his 27 years.

His initial restaurant venture, the Boiler Room, launched three years

ago in his hometown of Redlands, continues to attract an energetic

young entourage.

The entrepreneur’s plans go well beyond the formidable project for

which he is obviously sparing no expense. With the assistance of

general manager Jack Glass, who has joined him from the Redlands

venue, Shahabi has plans to restore the brewery.

He has installed extensive new plumbing fixtures, state-of-the-art

TV sets, updated kitchen and refrigeration appliances, and he is

continuing to refinish all three cocktail bars as well as worn-out

fixtures, walls, room dividers and more.

This overwhelming project encompasses an incredible half-dozen

diversified areas on three levels.

The most dramatic move, still in the works, is converting the

basic brewing room, where glistening steel tanks behind the bar loom

overhead, reaching to the heights of an upstairs cocktail lounge. The

room, now christened the Martini Lounge, is accessible from a side

entrance on Laguna Avenue. Woodwork has been refinished, highlighting

its dark, polished grain. And upon completion, cozy sofas and lounge

chairs will add a comfortable upscale ambience.

Upstairs from the Coast Highway entrance is a cocktail lounge and

a pool table to the right, and there’s a central display kitchen to

the left. The adjacent dining room, with its family-friendly tables

covered in butcher paper, continues to invite crayon doodles by

little and big kids. The welcoming change here is expansion of the

ocean-front windows for a less obstructed view of the Pacific. The

adjoining ocean-view patio will have a new aura where no-charge

comedy nights will prevail on second and fourth Wednesdays through

Aug. 25. For dance enthusiasts, disco rhythms and live entertainment

are on tap evenings. And on Sunday, bands start at 5 p.m.

While refurbishment of the premises is the primary source of

change, beverages and cuisine have taken no back seat. Shahabi has

expanded an affordably priced wine list and points with pride to an

inventive martini menu. Fifteen fascinating libations sporting

whimsical names are each tagged at $7, and variety ensures enough to

please diverse palates.

Though not necessarily presented in standard martini stems,

variations follow the trendy martini theme. Most are rather sweet,

which makes them easy going down thus potentially more intoxicating.

Eye of the Dragon spears a lemon-twisted cherry atop vodka, peach

schnapps, red passion and cranberry juice. The Marti Mojito starts

with Cuban rum, fresh lime, mint leaves and a splash of soda lending

a refreshing finish. Victoria’s Secret is the sweet one combining

vodka, triple sec, peach schnapps and watermelon pucker with splashes

of Chambord, sweet/sour and Sprite. To tickle your tongue, go for the

Flirtini, which floats champagne over vodka, peach schnapps and

pineapple juice.

There are a few revisions to the standard menu that include

artisan breads and a list of enticing summer specials. Noteworthy is

the rich, creamy crab bisque studded with crisp corn kernels

bountifully served in a scooped-out round of sourdough wheat bread.

Further are Southern-style crab cakes seasoned with chipotle aioli, a

traditional Greek salad and gazpacho.

Pizzas get a novel twist via savory pesto sauce and fresh tomato

slices. Attesting to reasonable price structures, grilled swordfish

seasoned with cumin, coriander and citrus relish is $17.95; seared

ahi with wasabi mashed potatoes, $19.95. Yummy desserts imported from

the Cheesecake Factory are $4.95. A continuing tradition is the

sampling of those delicious pizzas offered passersby on weekends at

the Coast Highway entrance.

NEWS BITES

Update. Dance enthusiasts, especially those enamored of ‘60s

music, will be tickled to know that the Nocturnes are packing them in

big time on Sundays at Laguna Beach Brewing Company. This is one hot

band, and it’s taken no time for locals to catch their thunder. It

was a treat last Sunday when lead guitarist Kurt Steinbeck

reintroduced himself as I walked in, recalling his tenure at the

Hotel Laguna’s Pier 9 when my late husband Skip and I danced nights

away with his band. Sidekicks Bruce McCoy and Paul Floodman continue

in their capacity with McCoy on drums and lead guitar, Floodman on

bass guitar. Current additions to the talented group are Rick Bastrup

and Richard Ferrin, who add their own distinctive style while joining

the band’s infectiously spirited vocals.

Congratulations to hush on winning the Wine Spectator Award of

Excellence for 2004. General manager Danny Reyes further announces

Jazz Nights featuring Urmas Mass, known for entertaining at the St.

Regis Resort’s Wednesday art receptions. His versatile repertoire

will add to the ambience at hush Tuesday and Saturday nights from 6

until 11 p.m. Call (949) 497-3616.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.