Sorrento Grille & Martini Bar sizzles

Glori Fickling

“Our martinis are served up in chilled oversized stems and shaken,

not stirred,” states the impressive martini menu at Sorrento Grille

and Martini bar, one of the first in town to have showcased this

return-to-the-20s trend.

Indeed, with 17 imaginative libations presented in frosted

birdbath-size stems, aficionados of the potables are getting their

dollar value in spades at $10 per drink.

Among the selections, truest to the original recipe is probably

the Bond, James Bond, an intoxicating blend of Skyy vodka and Bombay

Sapphire gin with a kiss of Lillet and lemon twist swirl. If olives

are your garnish preference, the Dirty Cajun combines the same 50-50

blend of liquors with a dash of olive juice and chile-stuffed olive.

The menu also encompasses an unusual variety of offbeat aperitif

and dessert drinks featuring such premium liquors as Sauza tequila,

Crown Royal whiskey, Bacardi rum plus savory fruit-flavored vodkas

and liqueurs. Add to these the introduction of Stolichnaya’s new

Elite, crafted from a centuries old Russian recipe that utilizes a

patented freezing process requiring three levels of filtration to

remove impurities.

As the sole Orange County vendor selected to feature this spirit,

the martini, featuring Elite (retails $59.95), is offered here for

all of $20. No wonder the bar sizzles nightly with the spirited

sounds of talk, fun and laughter.

This two story mecca of dining delights reposes on a cozy Park

Avenue site at Mermaid Street Downtown. The corner door opens up to a

trio of elevated tables leading into the restaurant where crisp white

linen draped tables await along one wall, twin bars opposite feature

a dozen place settings at the far end. This is an invitation for

guests to enjoy tasty snacks and complete dinners. Bar seating is

especially convenient for singles who are certain to enjoy the

camaraderie of adjacent guests, mixologist Nick Siracusa and general

manager Lucy Delgadillo.

The open display kitchen gives patrons a clear view of executive

chef Isidro Zuniga and his proficient chefs dishing up attractive

plates. For more intimate seating, a walk upstairs leads to a trio of

booths colorfully adorned with attractive framed murals and a row of

tables overlooking the downstairs bar.

That Zuniga’s menu has barely changed since renowned restaurateur

David Wilhelm launched the place 16 years ago says much about its

continuing popularity. When something new does show up, it is certain

to express the creative flair always prevalent at this eminent

establishment.

Enticement abounds these days in the guise of five new delicacies.

Hot peppered shrimp on a mound of parmesan polenta comes swimming in

a casserole of garlic butter laced with tomato bits and capers. This

tantalizing appetizer is further presented as an entree, the creamy

polenta substituted with delicate angel hair pasta in a lacing of

caramelized garlic and sun dried tomato pesto.

Seared scallops are another delectable starter, a half dozen plump

grilled rounds posed on a potato nest seasoned with lobster, then

surrounded with sweet corn kernels in a red pepper saute. An

enhancement of Provencale remoulade and arugula corn salad is a taste

twist for crusty Dungeness crab cakes. For an opposing texture you

won’t go wrong with velvety lobster bisque scented with cayenne cream

and contrasted with garlicky focaccia toast

Among favorite standards are the double-cut pork chop served with

mashed potatoes in balsamic-honey sauce with appled-cabbage,

grandma’s crispy chicken breast in thyme cream gravy with garlic

mashed potatoes, and the USDA prime New York steak slathered in

Maytab bleu cheese butter and sided with thyme fries.

Aficionados of the unusual Caesar salad will be happy to hear this

tangy starter continues with two preparations. Innovative is the

wood-grilling of crisp romaine lettuce halves lending a mild waft of

smoky flavor, then adding traditional dressing and a toss of thyme

focaccia croutons.

Appetizers, soups and salad range from $8 to $14, entrees and

pasta are $18 to $36, and for $12 a sirloin cheddar burger on

focaccia comes with grilled onion and French fries as does a grilled

chicken sandwich with fontina, prosciutto, onion and arugula.

NEWS BITES

Congratulations to Bart Billington, dedicated brew master at

Laguna Beach Brewing Company. He is the proud recipient of two silver

medals recently awarded him at the California State Fair. The first

is for Happy Jax Scaldro Dog 2, an Indian Pale Ale. The second is for

Heisler Hefenweizen, described as a German wheat beer with a banana

nut flavor. Billington is perfecting a new stout, which according to

principal Kasha Shahabi will be at peak drinkability in about two

weeks.

Late flash! Sunday dancing to that popular 60s era band, the

Nocturnes, now is from 6 until 10 p.m. Phone: (949) 499-BEER.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.