Sorrento Grille & Martini Bar sizzles
Glori Fickling
“Our martinis are served up in chilled oversized stems and shaken,
not stirred,” states the impressive martini menu at Sorrento Grille
and Martini bar, one of the first in town to have showcased this
return-to-the-20s trend.
Indeed, with 17 imaginative libations presented in frosted
birdbath-size stems, aficionados of the potables are getting their
dollar value in spades at $10 per drink.
Among the selections, truest to the original recipe is probably
the Bond, James Bond, an intoxicating blend of Skyy vodka and Bombay
Sapphire gin with a kiss of Lillet and lemon twist swirl. If olives
are your garnish preference, the Dirty Cajun combines the same 50-50
blend of liquors with a dash of olive juice and chile-stuffed olive.
The menu also encompasses an unusual variety of offbeat aperitif
and dessert drinks featuring such premium liquors as Sauza tequila,
Crown Royal whiskey, Bacardi rum plus savory fruit-flavored vodkas
and liqueurs. Add to these the introduction of Stolichnaya’s new
Elite, crafted from a centuries old Russian recipe that utilizes a
patented freezing process requiring three levels of filtration to
remove impurities.
As the sole Orange County vendor selected to feature this spirit,
the martini, featuring Elite (retails $59.95), is offered here for
all of $20. No wonder the bar sizzles nightly with the spirited
sounds of talk, fun and laughter.
This two story mecca of dining delights reposes on a cozy Park
Avenue site at Mermaid Street Downtown. The corner door opens up to a
trio of elevated tables leading into the restaurant where crisp white
linen draped tables await along one wall, twin bars opposite feature
a dozen place settings at the far end. This is an invitation for
guests to enjoy tasty snacks and complete dinners. Bar seating is
especially convenient for singles who are certain to enjoy the
camaraderie of adjacent guests, mixologist Nick Siracusa and general
manager Lucy Delgadillo.
The open display kitchen gives patrons a clear view of executive
chef Isidro Zuniga and his proficient chefs dishing up attractive
plates. For more intimate seating, a walk upstairs leads to a trio of
booths colorfully adorned with attractive framed murals and a row of
tables overlooking the downstairs bar.
That Zuniga’s menu has barely changed since renowned restaurateur
David Wilhelm launched the place 16 years ago says much about its
continuing popularity. When something new does show up, it is certain
to express the creative flair always prevalent at this eminent
establishment.
Enticement abounds these days in the guise of five new delicacies.
Hot peppered shrimp on a mound of parmesan polenta comes swimming in
a casserole of garlic butter laced with tomato bits and capers. This
tantalizing appetizer is further presented as an entree, the creamy
polenta substituted with delicate angel hair pasta in a lacing of
caramelized garlic and sun dried tomato pesto.
Seared scallops are another delectable starter, a half dozen plump
grilled rounds posed on a potato nest seasoned with lobster, then
surrounded with sweet corn kernels in a red pepper saute. An
enhancement of Provencale remoulade and arugula corn salad is a taste
twist for crusty Dungeness crab cakes. For an opposing texture you
won’t go wrong with velvety lobster bisque scented with cayenne cream
and contrasted with garlicky focaccia toast
Among favorite standards are the double-cut pork chop served with
mashed potatoes in balsamic-honey sauce with appled-cabbage,
grandma’s crispy chicken breast in thyme cream gravy with garlic
mashed potatoes, and the USDA prime New York steak slathered in
Maytab bleu cheese butter and sided with thyme fries.
Aficionados of the unusual Caesar salad will be happy to hear this
tangy starter continues with two preparations. Innovative is the
wood-grilling of crisp romaine lettuce halves lending a mild waft of
smoky flavor, then adding traditional dressing and a toss of thyme
focaccia croutons.
Appetizers, soups and salad range from $8 to $14, entrees and
pasta are $18 to $36, and for $12 a sirloin cheddar burger on
focaccia comes with grilled onion and French fries as does a grilled
chicken sandwich with fontina, prosciutto, onion and arugula.
NEWS BITES
Congratulations to Bart Billington, dedicated brew master at
Laguna Beach Brewing Company. He is the proud recipient of two silver
medals recently awarded him at the California State Fair. The first
is for Happy Jax Scaldro Dog 2, an Indian Pale Ale. The second is for
Heisler Hefenweizen, described as a German wheat beer with a banana
nut flavor. Billington is perfecting a new stout, which according to
principal Kasha Shahabi will be at peak drinkability in about two
weeks.
Late flash! Sunday dancing to that popular 60s era band, the
Nocturnes, now is from 6 until 10 p.m. Phone: (949) 499-BEER.
* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has
written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.
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