Shedding light on a pizza institution
Doug Tabbert
I sat down at one of the 20 wide, dark, wooden picnic tables and
waited for my lunch special at one of the two Lamppost Pizza
locations in Huntington Beach.
This one was in the sleepy strip mall on the corner of Brookhurst
and Adams and serves lunch specials from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Pepperoni
or cheese was the only decision demanded of me. I responded swiftly
and proceeded to the soda fountain positioned between videogames like
“Metal Slug 5.”
The two slices and refillable root beer ($4.79 with tax) made me
feel like a kid again. Perhaps that is stretching things a bit, but I
was reminded me that sometimes good meals can be simple and not
completely balanced.
Make no mistake; there is nothing average about the pizza served
in the mellow dark environs of Lamppost, which is resolutely
unconcerned with pretense. Perhaps that is why countless friends,
families and community sports teams routinely meet here for great
pie, large screen televisions broadcasting games, videogames and
pitchers of beer. They have many on tap, including Newcastle Brown
Ale.
I didn’t bother with the appetizers, since grease and saturated
fat were already on the way. Buffalo wings, mozzarella sticks,
jalapeno poppers or garlic cheese bread would have had precluded
enjoyment of an entree.
Their menu reports that Lamppost is “a family-owned and operated
Huntington Beach tradition for over 26 years,” and their craft is
well honed. The crust was thin, but not ethereal and possessed a
spattering of crispness. The mozzarella and tomato sauce meld
perfectly atop the recently risen hand-tossed dough. If you’re a meat
lover, there are plenty of sizzling pepperonis to catch the Parmesan
and red peppers. No gimmicks, frills or mascots here; just great
pizza that keeps one savoring every bite and looking forward to the
next.
There are plenty more options than cheese or pepperoni. You can
build your own pie or go with one of theirs. Perhaps the Veggie
Jackson, the Linebacker or the Best of Seven, which comes with
cheese, pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, bacon bits, onions and bell
peppers. For those averse to eating animals, there is the Perfect
Game or the Pizza of the Gods -- a cheese pizza topped with fresh
garlic, basil, mushrooms, artichoke hearts and tomatoes.
There is also spaghetti, salads or any one of more than a dozen
sandwiches, served hot or cold on a large eight-inch roll with chips
and a pickle. There are a few vegetarian options, like an avocado
sandwich that comes with provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato and your
choice of dressing or the veggie sandwich.
* DOUG TABBERT is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have
comments or suggestions, e-mail hbindy@latimes.com
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