Barging into Scotland

Patricia Neisser

The rich, syrupy burr of a Scottish brogue floated down the open

hatchway into the lounge of the Scottish Highlander barge, as Captain

Fred quietly directed his crew of four to cast off. We were moving

away from our mooring at Inverness, Scotland, to begin our six-day

adventure through the waterways of the Scottish Highlands.

We had begun this romantic adventure by boarding a British Airways

flight at Los Angeles International Airport, flying nonstop to

Heathrow Airport in London. What a blissful flight with amenities,

good food and outstanding service, not often a given these days.

A few days in London before flying to Scotland were on the books.

Our brief stay at the famed Dorchester Hotel on Park Lane brought

back lovely memories. Newly refurbished, the graceful hotel glows in

its new look. Enormous English breakfasts prepare you for a full day

of roaming the city.

The Millennium London Eye was our first stop. It takes 30 minutes

in a 17-passenger glass capsule to complete the 360-degree turn,

seeing all of London. Quite fabulous. You can walk from there to the

Tate Modern Gallery, housed in the Bankside Power Station on the

humming South Bank.

The talk of the art world, this vibrant museum is a must-see.

Housing quantities of top modern artwork, it is a masterpiece in

itself. Between the soaring ceiling, fine restaurants and a dynamite

gift store, you should plan a day here. If you don’t eat in the

museum, try the nearby OXO Tower with its sweeping view of the

Thames. The South Bank (of the Thames) is all the rage. Fish!

restaurant is also on this side, a glass-enclosed bistro serving the

freshest fish in town.

Two days flew by, and then it was off to Edinburgh -- dramatic

city, with its medieval castle keeping watch over the green parks and

Georgian buildings. A brand new museum, the Museum of Scotland, has

been added to the light and airy Victorian Royal Museum of Scotland.

What an ideal setup. The entire history of the Scots is portrayed on

each floor and at the top. You can have culinary libations that rank

with the best. The tower restaurant offers incredible views and some

of the best food in town.

We enjoyed the Grange, a small inn near the castle, for the night

and discovered its restaurant to be another of the city’s top

eateries. Friendly and caring, the Grange is also very reasonable.

The next day we took the train to Inverness on our Brit-rail

flexi-pass tickets, bought in the U.S. Inverness, a lively Highland

town, is situated along Loch Ness, and our hotel, the Glenmoriston,

was just steps from the river.

A sparkling place, its restaurant turned out to be a total winner

with its blue and white walls and upholstery and exceptional cuisine.

The coral-hued bar was where we met our fellow passengers the

following afternoon. A redheaded, Scottish tam-wearing guide named

Chris picked us up in the barge van, and we headed down river to our

new home on the river, anchored at the Tomnahurich Bridge. The

smiling crew greeted us with flutes of champagne. (All drinks and

food are included.)

After an inspection of our little barge, appetizers and more

drinks appeared -- and then our first taste of the incredible cuisine

we would have all week. Breast of duck, mushroom-stuffed raviolis,

cheeses and burnt cream with raspberries highlighted our first feast.

We also were served Aberdeen beef, fresh salmon, guinea fowl and

veggie dishes of the highest caliber. International wines rated

highly.

Staterooms were cozy and amenities were typical A&K; (Abercrombie

and Kent), top of the line. We ventured out daily in our van,

visiting the 14th century Cawdor Castle (read: Macbeth), climbing

waterfalls and taking a gondola to the top of Ben Nevis, Britain’s

highest mountain.

We sailed through canals, waiting for locks to fill, but never saw

Nessie. Even though we watched faithfully for the infamous Loch Ness

monster, she must have been on her cell phone in another part of this

enormous lake. We were entertained by a bagpiper one evening, had

high tea on a converted icebreaker and visited Glenmorangie Scotch

Distillery, tasting wee drams as we went.

The lock keepers and villagers at Fort Augustus and Fort William

were very welcoming. We had a lunch at Glengarry Castle and spent

time on Culloden Moor, where a not so bonnie Prince Charlie was

soundly defeated by a stronger English force in 1746. A moving

experience.

You’ll hate to leave your barge, but you’ll long remember this

six-day voyage back to Scotland’s past. We stayed one night in

Edinburgh at the bright new Bonham Hotel, housed in 18th century

buildings. Stunning atmosphere.

Then we were off to London for two more days of exploration. We

stayed at the Stafford, as many Orange Countians do. Terry Holmes

runs a sophisticated hotel with plenty of charm and rooms that are

perfection. Dining is excellent in the cozy bar and dressier dining

room.

For some special R&R;, we trained down to Chewton Glen Hotel and

Resort near New Milton, our very favorite country hotel. Run superbly

by Martin and Brigitte Skan, its Michelin Star cuisine is brilliant.

The spa is one of the best in England, and a day or two being spoiled

and enjoying the lovely atmosphere is enough to give you enough

energy to head home to reality.

* PATRICIA NEISSER is a resident of Newport Beach.