Rombi’s sets its old world cucina apart from the rest

Doug Tabbert

Walking into this new restaurant under a banner trumpeting its

nascent state -- another Italian restaurant in another modest

Huntington Beach strip mall -- one will soon be pleased by the casual

elegance that fills this new moderately priced restaurant.

After a couple pieces of complimentary bruschetta -- toast slices

covered with zesty tomatoes, olive oil and basil -- and plenty of

warm focaccia, astute diners will be infused with optimism. Soon

after the olive oil and balsamic vinegar are poured, the homemade

soup of the day arrives for those who order pasta or an entree.

This night, it was a bowl of meat-less minestrone; celery,

carrots, basil, pine nuts and tiny bow tie pasta served in a tasty

broth. Perhaps it’s the small attractively lighted restaurant that

gives the food an intimate aura, but more than likely it was the

chef’s impeccable pursuit of perfection. The small mixed green salad

was topped with kernels of corn and sweet chopped tomatoes.

The portabella mushroom ravioli was al dente. The small

zigzag-edged pasta pillows enclosed a delectable aggregate of savory

mushrooms, ricotta cheese and fresh herbs. The marinara with a touch

of cream, or blush sauce, was sprinkled with basil and finished with

fresh Parmesan cheese. It is fair and balanced to say that this may

be the best ravioli in Southern California -- so meltingly endearing

to even the coarsest of palates.

Dover sole, the special entree for that evening, comes with soup,

salad, risotto and vegetables. The fish compete with entrees as

enticing as eggplant parmesan ($13.95), chicken piccata ($15.95) and

the sizzling sausage entree ($14.95) that included bell peppers

Marsala wine, tomato sauce, capers, black olives and onions.

The restaurant has plenty of new furniture and bright white table

settings that could seat roughly 50 patrons. The service was

excellent, but familiar. The meal is an affordable three-course meal;

most dinners stay well under $2.

Dessert anyone? Yep, they got them and they are supposedly

phenomenal, but I didn’t have room. There is a chocolate cake,

rumored to be able to smooth things over with an irked spouse and a

creme brulee that tops Las Vegas’ finest and delicately moist

strawberry shortcake.

This was truly a delight. The food was fresh; much of it was made

from scratch on location. Coupled with a splendid presentation and

the original mid-20th century framed Italian posters, which hang on

white walls, Rombi’s makes for a distinct and significant dining

experience.

* DOUG TABBERT is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, e-mail hbindy@latimes.com