Queen Mary 2 perfect for sailing the Mediterranean
Bill and Bette Doremus
To celebrate our 55th wedding anniversary, our entire family chose to
mark the occasion with a cruise aboard the new Queen Mary 2.
We began our trip by joining our sons in New York City. The Queen
Mary 2 arrived in New York the very day we were scheduled to fly to
Paris, which gave us the opportunity to get a glimpse of the
spectacular ocean liner we would board for its inaugural cruise to
the Mediterranean.
We enjoyed a week’s worth of glorious weather in Paris, and our
usual restaurant haunts never disappointed us. We were delighted to
discover a handful of new restaurants that have taken the city by
storm. One restaurant in particular, Les Bouquinistes (Guy Savoy’s
newest restaurant), is where the food and especially his sublime
mashed potatoes linger on both our minds and waistlines. Between
lunching at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, as well as his contemporary
“baby bistros” such as Alain Ducasse’s, and evening strolls along the
Seine, enjoying Bertillion’s infamous ice cream, we were grateful
that Paris is a city where such extravagant indulgences can be walked
off.
At week’s end, while we were sorry to say goodbye to Paris, we
boarded the Eurostar to begin our journey to Southampton, England,
via the “Chunnel,” with great anticipation to finally step on board
the world’s greatest ocean liner, which would be our home for the
next two weeks. Arriving at Waterloo three hours later, our favorite
driver was there to greet us and whisk us away to Southampton to
board the magnificent Queen Mary 2.
Having had the privilege to have previously sailed aboard her, we
knew that the new and larger Queen Mary would not disappoint. Despite
early criticism leveled by critics and jealous travel writers, we
found she lived up to our every expectation. The ship is designed and
built in the tradition of the great ocean liners. From our suites
(there are no cabins or staterooms) to the public spaces, one thing
is clear: No expense has been spared to provide the best there is.
Our first day at sea gave us ample time to investigate every nook
and cranny of the ship. Thank goodness for our sons. They definitely
know “what’s hot and what’s not” on both land and sea. Even before
departing Southampton, they took it upon themselves to check out
every one of the 13 decks, finding those “haunts” that only seasoned
travelers find, so we had those special places mostly to ourselves
with a few others in the know for most of the trip. And whatever
concerns we had about the passenger capacity of 2,600, we never once
felt crowded or had to stand in line.
On our second day at sea, the usually rough seas through the Key
of Biscay were calm, making our trip toward Spain and subsequently
the Mediterranean delightful rather than frightful. An invitation to
dine at the captain’s table that evening was the first of the formal
nights at sea. The commodore, the master of the ship, was as
charming. Dining at the captain’s table has become somewhat of a
custom, as our sons somehow magically arrange it, and each time it is
a rare privilege, an honor and a memory that lingers long after the
trip.
As luck would have it, certain ports of call had not completed the
necessary renovations to accommodate the oversized Queen Mary 2, so
Cunard surprised us by adding Rome to our cruise and another day at
sea. That extra day at sea was a much-appreciated gift of time. With
such a hectic itinerary, we took advantage to enjoy the amenities
on-board. Reclining on those comfortable teak deck chaises, visiting
the planetarium, the ship’s stunning paneled library and lazy
afternoons in the Canyon Ranch Spa filled the time.
This was the ship’s inaugural voyage to the Mediterranean, so our
arrival and departure from every port of call was an event. Our ports
of call in Spain included Vigo, Palma de Mallorca (which took us
completely by surprise at how beautiful it is) and Majorca, and a day
trip to the magnificent Alhambra was new to us all. Since one of our
sons had previously visited Barcelona, he served as our guide to this
gothic and exciting city.
Arriving in Marseille, France, on Sunday provided an excellent
opportunity to drive to Aix de Provence without the usual traffic and
to explore the delights of a part of France that many never get to
know. Departing Marseille later that day was an event in itself.
Hundreds of boats surrounded the Queen Mary 2, led by a fleet of
fireboats shooting geysers of water high into the air. This is
something that everyone should experience at least once in a
lifetime.
Lisbon, Portugal, was our final port of call before sailing back
to Southampton. However, the best was yet to come. Awaiting us upon
our return to our stateroom was a surprise invitation from the
commodore to join him on the bridge. Security concerns restrict
entrance to the bridge for obvious reasons. Although passengers can
see the bridge, viewing hours are restricted, and passengers are kept
more than an arm’s length behind the imposing bulletproof glass.
There is nothing like being up close and personal with the captain
and the harbor master who assumes the reins of the “joy stick” to
guide the world’s largest passenger ship out of the harbor. While the
captain’s invitation itself was thrilling, nothing could rival the
view from the bridge, as we traversed under one of the tallest
bridges in the world, barely clearing it by a few feet as we left the
harbor and sailed into the Atlantic. The sights of that late
afternoon are indelibly etched into our memories.
With the seas calm, as they were during our entire cruise, the
commodore set new records on our voyage back to Southampton. The
smile on our driver’s face welcomed us back to England. The weekend
traffic was light and within no time, he delivered us to the epitome
of art deco hotels, the Savoy.
While all good things must come to an end, our departure seemed
perfectly timed, as a heat wave struck the city the morning we flew
back for our home in Newport Beach.
* BILL and BETTE DOREMUS are Newport Beach residents.
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