Anat Falafel offers authentic Mideastern tastes

Glori Fickling

This is the story of how Anat Falafel, the new little Middle Eastern

cafe in Food Village, migrated to Laguna Beach from its modest start

in a faraway country circa 1945.

That is when a grandfather-forebear in Israel sold the family

falafels from a little pushcart. It was not until 1991, however, that Anat Falafel got its first serious start operating from a modest

mobile unit at a South African flea market.

It was not to become a corporation until upgrading as a permanent

fixture in 1995, then going on to a plethora of permanent branches in

shopping centers throughout Africa. There are now about 30 thriving

units in that continent.

The enterprising Yaniz and Mandy Nagar to bring the concept to the

United States. So now, as they have enthusiastically found their

dream niche in Laguna Beach, our town is delighted to share it with

the proud young couple.

Though Anat Falafel was launched two months ago amid our busy

festival fury, it did not take long for locals to discover the quaint

little addition to the Downtown quartet of ethnic dining choices.

What this venue has brought is a delicious taste of the Middle

East unlike anything we have discovered locally in recent years.

Simply walk into the cozy corner attraction and the inviting aromas

of fresh herbs, garlic and cylindrical schwarmas spinning lean rounds

of lamb, turkey and chicken. These will totally arouse your senses,

as will the Saran-wrapped samples illustrating some of the dining

delights.

Even more tantalizing is the display counter with its tempting

rainbow of colors -- red and green bell pepper strips, white onion

slices, pink turnip discs, purple-rimmed eggplant, vermillion and sea

foam chopped tomato and cucumbers and chartreuse pickled cabbage.

When artistically arranged on a plate even a paper plate, you have

something of a paint palette a starving artist would be happy to

devour.

It’s easy to see these deliciously healthful recipes are based on

fresh ingredients, and every item is prepared on the premises from

scratch.

Creamy tahini is a simple blend of sesame seeds, lemon and garlic;

hummus is made from garbanzo beans; the plump little falafel balls

are freshly ground every morning. In fact, the couple is already in

the throes of building a bakery on the premises to assure

fresh-from-the-oven pita bread constantly, much in the manner of all

the South African units.

A la carte and combination plates are both at the ready. The

flavorful little falafels, a vegetarian’s delight, are served with

pita bread for $4.50 or with a combination of your choice from the

counter at $6.50.

Schwarma chunks of lean turkey, lamb, chicken and beef carved to

order are similarly offered at $5.50 to $6.50 and $7.50 to $8.50,

respectively.

The talented Mandy Nagar, who does most of the cooking based on

her family’s original recipes, also offers piping hot, crisp French

fries for $1.70.

The flavor and texture contrasts of this adventuresome cuisine

range provocatively from subtle to intense, creamy to crunchy, making

it fun to mix and match for a personal creative approach to choices.

The only hot taste happens upon request of the fiery hot pepper

relish.

There are a few imported and domestic beers, a nonalcoholic brew

and lots of soft drinks.

NEWS BITES

Now it can be told. Under astute direction of newly appointed

general manager Tony Shill, a native South African who recently

arrived from numerous successful hotel and restaurant ventures in

America, things are moving steadfastly along on the site of long

defunct Tortilla Flats.

Exciting news to delight Laguna foodies is that the restaurateur’s

repertoire of major accomplishments has culminated in this newest,

most ambitious achievement he calls Mozambique.

The sophisticated establishment will specialize in fresh seafood,

prime steaks and some intriguingly exotic recipes largely inspired by

early Portuguese culture. These are to utilize the type of spices

natives used as currency millenniums ago. While it is too soon to

give a phone number, the restaurant may be ready for an early spring

opening in 2005.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.