The Loft is luscious at Montage Resort & Spa

Glori Fickling

The art of fine dining is no more eloquently expressed than at

Laguna’s fabulous five-star Montage Resort and Spa, which debuted in

all its classic splendor on Feb. 22 last year.

With a trio of diversified restaurants from which to choose,

dining doesn’t get much more delightful than at the Loft, overlooking

a lush poolside setting with the Pacific Ocean mere steps away.

Graciously appointed with classic furnishings, the room is replete

with a corner bar where guests are offered tastings of imported and

regional cheeses. The inviting station is the prideful domain of

cheese steward Starr Cornwell who designs personalized plates to suit

individual tastes. The spacious dining room is further flanked by a

handsome cocktail lounge and a private rear area offering curtained

booths for more intimate seating.

The recent appointment of chef de cuisine John Cuevas has brought

a distinctively sophisticated new dimension to the menu. The position

came directly following a similar tenure with his mentor, executive

chef James Boyce who reigns supreme in the resort’s signature Studio,

an extraordinary free standing building proudly perched at water’s

edge. Cuevas’ considerable expertise is coupled with the perception

of sommelier Brian Connor bringing to the fore culinary magic by

coordinating pairings of gourmet cuisine with compatible pourings of

fine wines. A recent evening was apt testimony to an ultimate dining

experience.

Picture a setting of dark polished tables gleaming with a parade

of sparkling stemware, each capacious goblet awaiting the definitive

wine. Connor’s choice of Drapier, a French Carte-D’or champagne,

proved precisely right for an exquisite seafood starter comprised of

tender calamari, shrimp and caviar accented with sweet/sour cocktail

sauce. The same nonvintage flute of bubbly complemented the second

course, a plump Diver scallop cuddled with a crunch of roasted, fresh

off-the-cob corn kernels. Cuevas expertise was demonstrated again

with a presentation of black sea bass, crisply broiled skin coated

with sea salt for a deliciouscrunch. The smooth complement here was

Hanzell chardonnay, Sonoma County 2000

Tantalizing duck confit and mouth-melting foie gras took to

Connor’s deft pouring of David Bruce Petite Syrah for the proverbial

match made in heaven. Simply designed white porcelain dishes

dramatically frame each preparation. Especially impressive are the

copious bowls which insured constant heat for the aforementioned

Diver scallop appetizer and again for an entree alternating sliced

filet mignon and forest mushrooms studded with candied onions.

Complementing this was L’Ecole No. 41 cabernet sauvignon, Colombia

Valley 2001.

The cheese course following received an on-target finish with

velvety Broadbent port, 1994. Montage pastry chef, Richard Ruskell,

cited among the nation’s top 10 patissiers by Chocolatier Magazine,

came through with a delectable medley of sweet temptations,

pleasingly enhanced with Dolce Napa 1997.

The varying bill of fare comprises half a dozen sumptuous starters

priced from $16 to $26 plus a trio of caviars at $95 to $130 Maine

lobster bisque perfumed with fennel and tarragon is $15. Salads are

Weiser Farm mixed greens on toast with avocado, roasted peppers and

goat cheese for $16; Heirloom tomatoes with shallots, arugula and

grain mustard, $18. Each entree is complemented with a choice of

parmesan risotto, herb polenta, wilted spinach, butter braised green

beans or roasted rosemary fingerling potatoes. A quartet of seafood

choices is tabbed from $32 to $38. Chicken, lamb, veal and beef

selections start at $26 for roasted Shelton Ranch chicken, going to

$85 for bone-in rib eye steak which serves two.

NEWS BITES

Cocktails and wine, thanks to the generosity of Young’s Market

were plentiful; fresh strawberry bouquets arranged for dipping at the

California Chocolate Fountains display merely magnificent; buffet

presentations from Classic Catering simply superlative. Each group

contributed in grand measure to the huge success of Laguna Art

Museum’s 22nd annual art auction last Saturday night. To launch the

evening, sparkling mirrored trays framed tempting morsels of sushi

sprinkled with a colorful confetti of flying fish caviar.

Principal Mark Carter and his five girl crew kept busy adorning

tray after tray with spicy Thai spring rolls plump with coconut milk,

minced shrimp and shitake mushrooms; filo filled strudels of curried

lamb, a tasty melange of salmon, wasabi, sesame heaped atop crisp

fried wonton wedges. Far exceeding the 300 expected guests, the

Museum pridefully catered to the max some 400-plus happy attendees.

SATURDAY HALLOWEEN HAUNTS

The White House annual costume party feature rock ‘n’ roll, funk

and top 40s music by The Trip band. Prizes will be awarded at

midnight. (949) 494-8088. Club M upstairs at Mosun promises prizes at

midnight and giveaways all evening. (949) 497-5646. The Sandpiper has

booked a diverse trio of bands for dancing all night long.

Information: (949) 494-4694.

A festive celebration last week on the rooftop deck of La Casa del

Camino honored the 10-year anniversary of Kerry Hotels and its

prestigious countrywide entourage. Plans for hospitable owners Chris

and Vida Keller to convert their historic vintage hotel into an eerie

haunted house this weekend have been postponed until next year when

we may anticipate a truly haunted Halloween coming. Information:

(949) 494-5581.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.