Enjoying the train in Spain

Pat Neisser

Spain is a fascinating country, and when we travel there, we do it in

stages.

One of our favorite trips is by train, but not just any old train.

The Andalus Expreso travels through Andalusia, stopping at Cordoba,

Granada, Jerez, Ronda and other places, in a six-night, seven-day

excursion.

We began our trip from Madrid, staying one night at the lovely

Ritz Hotel before moving on by train to Seville, where our palace on

wheels began its journey.

Our gleaming period train stood at the ready -- all 12 cars,

including five sleeping cars -- at the Santa Justa railway station,

awaiting its passengers. The Andalus Expreso is a grand luxe train,

her 1929-era wooden cars proudly refurbished in ‘20s finery, polished

to a fare-thee-well and her spiffy attendants starched and ready to

welcome all.

Friendly multilingual hostesses greeted everyone and helped stow

away luggage. You’ll meet travelers from all over the world, and by

the end of the journey, you’ll be fast friends.

Touring the train was next on the agenda, and as we entered the

bar car named Giralda, everyone drew a collective breath.

Flower-filled crystal vases seemed to cover every surface, and the

jazzy music floated up from the piano bar in the center of the car.

Paisley couches and chairs hugged the mahogany walls, which were

inlaid with marquetry designs. You have to see it to believe it.

We then entered the Medina Azahara, the recreation car, which was

fitted out with VCRs and other games. A pub was already doing a

lively business. Two restaurant cars continued the haute ‘20s decor,

a bar at one end offering more libations. This was definitely a party

train. After an evening of dancing, singing, meeting fellow

passengers and trying out our fractured Spanish, we all headed to our

compartments for our first night.

Beds were turned down with terry robes, slippers and amenities

neatly placed. You have a choice of compartments. Club compartments

have their own toilets and showers. Otherwise you shower in a special

car, which is really great fun. Robes and huge towels are supplied.

Food is always on travelers’ minds, and on this train, breakfasts

and some dinners are served on board, and you’ll dine along the way

at fabulous paradors (inns) and restaurants that serve Andalusian

delicacies. Tapas (Spanish hors d’oeuvres) are served on the train

with drinks.

Two spiffy buses traveled with the train, and at each stop they

took the passengers off to see the countryside. At Cordoba, we

visited the famed Mosque and the old Jewish quarter, both of which

are fascinating. Dinner at El Churrasco or the Parador de Cordoba is

a real treat.

Granada is one of my favorite places, with the awesome Alhambra

and incomparable Generalife Gardens, summer palace of the Moorish

kings. The tiles and decor are superb. We had have lunch and dinner

in Granada, with plenty of time for shopping. Prices were reasonable.

The next day, we visited “Finca La Bobadilla” for lunch and then

continued on the train to Antequara, a typical Andalusian village.

Ronda was next, located high in the mountains and one of my favorite

villages. Then it was on to Carmona, where we dined at the historic

Parador of Carmona.

Jerez is very special, particularly to sherry drinkers, and we

visited the Royal Spanish Riding School and lunched in Jerez de la

Frontera. A visit to some wine cellars really gives you a sense of

how this historic wine is made. You’ll be able to buy some of the

best sherry.

A gala farewell dinner on board the train was a highlight of the

trip before touring Seville on the last day. I’ve tried many train

journeys, and the Andalus Expreso has got to be one of the very best.

Prices vary for the accommodations.

* PAT NEISSER is a resident of Newport Beach.