Feast scores again for the Laguna Playhouse

Glori Fickling

With innumerable charitable events transpiring in Laguna Beach every

year, none is more innovative than “A Moveable Feast.”

Something of a foodie fantasy, this is a traveling gourmet dinner

that annually benefits the Laguna Playhouse. Kicking off its 14th

season a week ago last Monday, guests were welcomed with an elegant

champagne reception at beautiful Tivoli Terrace on the Festival of

Arts grounds. Replete with melodic music by the Marc Why Group,

enthusiasts wandered under the tented exterior roof festively

illuminated with tiny white lights and into the dining area. Awaiting

were hundreds of contributed silent auction gifts displayed along

with intriguing certificates offering prestigious cruises, vacation

retreats, health spa destinations, restaurant sites, concert tickets

and assorted other prize packages.

The addition of Hotel Laguna’s Claes restaurant brought this

year’s participating venues to a lucky 13. To expedite seating at

individual destinations, coaches waited outside Tivoli and playhouse

hosts were at the ready to welcome guests at each site. North to

south on Coast Highway were Picayo, Cabana, Claes, Partner’s Bistro,

Savoury’s, Splashes and French 75. On Forest Avenue came Sundried

Tomato and Cedar Creek Inn; on Glenneyre Sorrento Grille and 5 Feet.

Alone on Cliff Drive was Las Brisas and on Broadway Villa Romana

Trattoria. With so many delectable offerings at each superb spot,

dining decisions obviously are difficult. That is why each patron,

upon purchasing the $125 ticket, is required to select, in theater

jargon, an Act I appetizer and an Act II entree. Each is described in

the promotional brochure mailed early on.

Sorrento Grille’s wood-grilled Caesar salad was my personal pick,

one that rated raves from the many attendants seated at foursome

tables. More than an appetizer, this delectable dish combines a

tender heart of romaine grilled to perfection with a tangy dressing,

a confetti sprinkling of capers, tomato, onion and black olive bits,

an adornment of parmigiana, thyme focaccia croutons and accompanying

squares of focaccia richly redolent of olive oil and herbs.

Many attendees choose places within walking distance. Thus, a mere

two blocks away at Partner’s Bistro we were welcomed by gracious

volunteer Bruce Smith who joined us for petite filet mignon served

with a side of mashed potatoes, chewy sauteed mushrooms and crushed

black peppercorns lending contrast. It was agreed, however, that a

healthy fresh vegetable would have been tastier and a more

appreciated balance to the entree than the sole little watercress

sprig adorning the plate. We did enjoy the basket of poppy seed rolls

and skinny breadsticks with the welcoming glass of wine.

Not to worry if you missed some of the above. Most of the

prevailing tastes are readily available nightly. Thanks to the

dedicated efforts of development manager Amy Larson and the Laguna

Playhouse crew, ticket sales and auction dollars brought to the

coffers a tidy $34,000 gross.

NEWS BITES

Chalk up another hit for sommelier LeeAnn Kaufman and executive

chef Phillip Kaufman for “Sharing the Vineyard Table,” hush

restaurant’s recent wine dinner.

The elegant extravaganza featured totally innovative recipes

complemented with Dominus Estate Vineyards of the Napa Valley.

Commencing with champagne and appetizers in the lounge, guests were

welcomed with spicy lobster/bloody Mary shooters and accompanying

crunchy fried foie gras/truffle poppers. The provocative amuse-bouche

aptly affirmed this chef’s approach to small bites, for which he

gives equal credit to sous chef Ronnie Arnold.

For dinner in the sophisticated dining room, tables were

luxuriously arranged with a sparkling parade of king-size stemware.

Elegant menus at each place setting were an inviting prelude of the

four-course delicacies awaiting. A tasty rabbit rellette triangle was

artistically accompanied with a dab of horseradish foam and lemony

frise spirals. Meltingly tender grilled quail arrived with potato

leek fondue in truffle jus. Another surprise, indicative of Kaufman’s

culinary creativity, was the foie gras filled baked apple

complementing a roasted venison chop with pomegranate port reduction.

The exceptional red wines served with each course were concluded at

dessert with mellow Ramos Pinto port.

For the definitive conclusion, pastry chef Rocio Tamayo showcased

chewy little chevre bites and a variety of chocolate nuggets. We look

forward to a similar experience some time in the New Year.

Information: (949) 497-3616.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.