Sage sister opens on Promenade

Greer Wylder

At Sage on the Coast, in-season foods dictate the menu. The new

restaurant at Crystal Cove Promenade is an upscale sister restaurant

to Sage at Eastbluff Village Center in Newport Beach. Both

restaurants focus on fresh ingredients, contemporary American cuisine

and decors that blend well with the style of cooking.

Each Monday, chef-owner Richard Mead plans out the week’s menu

after consulting with farmers, as well as fish purveyors, to find

current produce and in-season seafood. At a meeting with chef de

cuisine Kris Kirk -- the former chef of AQUA at the St. Regis -- the

two discuss dishes and then reconfigure the menu.

“Right now we’re deciding on a menu related to fall. We consider

what’s happening and what’s going to happen. We sit down and lay out

ideas,” Mead said. “It’s the end of the tomato season, wild salmon

season is ending, so we’re making a pomegranate and persimmon salad,

and we’re roasting cauliflower [with basil anchoaide] and serving

brussel sprouts.”

On Wednesday mornings, Mead finds the freshest, most unusual

produce at Santa Monica’s Farmer’s Market. On Saturday mornings, he

shops at Irvine’s Certified Farmers’ Market, adjacent to UC Irvine.

Mead says he’s a big proponent of sustainable farming; he supports

local farmers who practice the environmentally sensitive program.

Their growing practices include conserving soil and water, reducing

chemical use and restoring natural habitats.

Sage on the Coast exists because of Mead’s relationships and

friendships with partners, architects and chefs.

“It was the next step that developed [after owning Sage for seven

years],” Mead said. “The process and becoming friends with people

helped create it.”

His partner, Rosemarie Urbananski, was instrumental in the vision

of colors, fabrics, flooring and wall treatments that pull the room

together. The shimmering green fabric for the drapery, the

dark-strained “farmhouse” wood flooring and the Venetian plaster on

the walls help make the large rectangular room one of the best

looking dining rooms in Newport.

“We had an empty space, and more money to work with,” said Mead,

referring to the early years at Sage. “We did not want a trendy

restaurant. We wanted to do something different, that not everyone

else is doing.”

As with all Crystal Cove Promenade tenants, the room benefits from

17-foot ceilings and expansive windows with ocean views.

The covered patio serves an extension to the restaurant and

features fresh herbs and citrus used in the cooking.

“The patio has a Napa wine country vibe, with the fireplace, earth

tones, and herbs and citrus,” Mead said.

The European-style retractable awning opens up in panels --

certain areas can open or close -- allowing for year-round outdoor

seating.

At both restaurants, the style of the food is the same, yet Sage

on the Coast emphasizes small plates for lunch and dinner. The focus

is always on the food.

“We’re not trying to be the hot spot,” Mead said. “The idea is to

have the energy come from the food. It’s a way to introduce people to

new things.”

Mead said the small plate idea is an attractive option -- it

allows guests to try a couple of things at a time and not go home

feeling stuffed.

“There’s always an option to have a 14 oz. rib eye,” Mead added.

The eight rotating “big-plate” dishes include large portions of

roast duck breast with cavolo nero kale, black-eyed peas, haricot

verts, raisins and an orange passion fruit sauce ($27); and

panko-crusted Hawaiian onaga with Asian vegetables, saimen noodles,

soy fresh wasabi broth and daikon sprouts ($32). Sage also serves

grilled kurobate pork chops with baby brussel sprouts, cipollini

onions, a Yukon gold potato cake and apple brandy sauce ($28).

The small plates, appetizers and salads include blue-crab cakes

with grilled corn salad, crispy hash browns and Creole sauce ($12);

pulled barbecue pork and corn crepes with asiago cheese, sweet and

tangy barbecue sauce and creme fraiche ($10); and warm roasted beet

salad with arugula, goat cheese, walnuts, horseradish and beet

vinaigrette ($12). Other dishes include a grilled beef filet

medallion and spinach with grilled portabello mushrooms, gorgonzola

butter, caramelized shallots and port sauce ($18); and ahi sashimi

with green papaya salad, ginger, fresh wasabi and soy rice

vinaigrette ($15).

Ice creams and sorbet are made fresh daily. Pastry chef Leza Kirk

created a dessert menu that includes an apple tarte tatin with

caramelized granny smith apples and creme fraiche ice cream ($9);

vanilla mascarpone cheesecake with passion fruit caramel,

pomegranates and candied vanilla beans ($9); and a pear and sour

cherry crisp with brown sugar walnut topping and fresh ginger ice

cream ($9).

The restaurant begins serving at 11:30 a.m. and is open all day.

“We serve a limited menu from 3 to 5:30 p.m.,” Mead said. “Its a

nice time to come in and have a glass of wine or loose tea, order

something from the menu, and kick back and relax.”

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.