Steakhouse lets down at least one diner

Greer Wylder

Outback Steakhouse has the feel of a speedy, airport restaurant --

bustling crowds; oak booths, bar top and flooring; and passable food.

The decor is just different enough that you know you’re not in a

T.G.I. Friday’s. That and the boomerangs, kangaroos and koala bears

sprinkled throughout to give it that down-under feel. You get the

feeling that an exact replica of this restaurant exists in hundreds

of cities throughout the world. The manufactured Australian theme is

a tribute to American ingenuity.

The original Outback Steakhouse opened in 1988, in Tampa, Fla. Its

four co-founders didn’t even have to go to Australia to create

Outback. The Aussie concept was novel, fun and easy-going. Their

timing was perfect; it attracted the “Crocodile Dundee” movie crowd

and those who had just seen Dennis Connor’s sailing team recapture

the America’s Cup in Fremantle, Australia, in 1987.

Outback belongs to one of the largest restaurant empires in the

world. Outback Steakhouse Inc. also operates seven restaurant brands

with 1,000-plus international locations. The OSI group includes

Carrabba’s Italian Grill, Lee Roy Selmon’s, Cheeseburger in Paradise,

Bonefish Grill, Paul Lee’s Chinese Kitchen, Fleming’s Prime

Steakhouse & Wine Bar and Roy’s Restaurants.

Much of its popularity could be due to Outback’s upbeat staff,

consistently friendly and welcoming. At Outback Steakhouse, plan on

being treated well. It has a no-reservations policy, yet offers

call-ahead seating. Just phone in before you arrive, and you’ll be

put on the waiting list. There are also three designated parking

places for curbside take-out orders. Customers pull up to the right

side of the restaurant, and a server will bring the order out to the

car.

Authentic foods found in Australia, like kangaroo meat, witchetty

grubs (larvae) and spicy bush tomatoes, are replaced by generic

American dishes with down-under names like Walkabout Soup O’ The Day,

a cup or bowl of soup ($3.99/$2.99); Kookaburra Wings, or buffalo

chicken wings ($6.99); Outback Rack, a rack of New Zealand lamb

($19.99); and Queensland Chicken ‘N Shrimp, grilled shrimp served

over fettuccini Alfredo ($13.99).

The signature appetizer that helped put Outback on the

middle-America culinary map is the Bloomin’ Onion, a monstrosity of

deep-fried onion formed in a sea anemone-like dome ($5.99). It’s in

the same league as the Aussie Cheese Fries, a mountain of French

fries garnished with melting cheese, bacon bits and ranch dressing

for dipping ($6.99).

Most of the menu goes over well with those who yearn for

Sizzler-esque plates and who won’t be let down by hyperbolic

descriptions of dishes. “Tastebud thrillers” describes the grilled

chicken ($13.99), the grilled salmon ($14.99), the grilled shrimp

($14.99) and the grilled steak ($14.99). “Just right” defines

Victoria’s center-cut filet, the 9-oz. tenderloin ($19.99) and the

7-oz. tenderloin ($17.99). And its 16-oz. prime rib is touted as

“tempting” and “seared to perfection.”

Outback never seems to run out of cutesy dishes masquerading as

“down under” crowd pleasers, such as the Chicken on the Barbie, a

flattened grilled breast of chicken served with barbecue sauce and

steamed, then buttered, vegetables ($10.99); and Cyclone Chicken, a

mess of grilled chicken served with mushrooms, smoked ham, sun-dried

tomatoes, basil and rich Alfredo sauce, all covered with three melted

cheeses and more steamed vegetables ($13.49).

Like many airport restaurants, the food is plentiful, familiar and

filling. But you can’t help leaving there feeling lesser for the

experience.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.