C’est Si Bon celebrates perfectly

Greer Wylder

Remember when a day without orange juice was like a day without

sunshine?

Not anymore. Now a day isn’t complete without a piping-hot cafe

latte with freshly steamed milk -- even if it costs $3.50. The heyday

of specialty coffee chains is here. On almost every corner or strip

mall there’s a Starbucks, Diedrich’s Coffee, Coffee Bean or Peet’s

Coffee.

Newport Beach got a jump on the espresso drink trend in 1979, when

C’est Si Bon reportedly became the first local shop to serve cafe

lattes.

The neighborhood French bakery started locals drinking gourmet

coffee as part of their daily routine.

Now dozens of ubiquitous coffee chains have opened, yet that

hasn’t kept regulars from visiting C’est Si Bon.

Co-owners Paul Kohne and Bruno Campos, both 51, don’t even mind

that Starbucks moved in just around the corner.

“We’re not upset when customers come in holding Starbucks cups,”

Kohne said.

“Some people prefer Starbucks, and that’s fine. They’ll buy

pastries from us.”

C’est Si Bon also introduced Newport to French baguettes and

croissants. It celebrates its 25-year anniversary Dec. 21.

The original C’est Si Bon concept was conceived in the mid-’70s,

when its co-founders worked for Club Med. (Sadly, Scott Russel, an

original co-founder, passed away two years ago. His brother, Greg, is

now a partner.)

At the resort, known for its vast buffets, they noticed that many

vacationers would forgo lavish dinners, opting instead for meals of

bread, cheese and wine. They knew a bakery that specialized in

coffee, gourmet cheese and fine wines could be a hit.

After searching throughout Southern California for a location to

open C’est Si Bon, they found there wasn’t competition in Newport

Beach. And for good reason -- most locals weren’t familiar with

French baguettes, authentic croissants and gourmet coffees.

“We had to educate people,” Kohne said.

Their business took off when the Los Angeles Times featured a

croissant story, and a group of croissant chains opened in the early

‘80s.

To find authentic French recipes, the co-owners went to France

looking for the best baguettes and croissants they had ever tasted.

“We knew what good food was,” Kohne said. “We just didn’t know how

to make it.”

Even though the Atkins diet has many people skipping

carbohydrates, C’est Si Bon hasn’t been affected.

“We had our best summer ever,” Campos said.

He attributes consistent bakery sales to customers willing to eat

carbohydrates and calories in moderation, especially since they’re so

good.

And C’est Si Bon supplies fresh breads to 60 local restaurants, as

well as local gourmet grocery stores.

“The bread we deliver in the morning to restaurants won’t be fresh

at dinner,” Kohne said. “Since we are such a small operation, we can

deliver breads to restaurants twice a day.”

As business progressed, the dynamic at C’est Si Bon changed.

Cheese and wine aren’t as vital; its most popular foods are breakfast

pastries, fresh breads and the area’s best sandwiches.

The secret to their sandwiches: generous portions, simple,

high-quality ingredients and low prices. An enormous whole sandwich

served on a baguette with choice of turkey, ham, roast beef, salami,

brie, chicken curry salad, chicken tarragon salad and tuna salad is

just $5.75. Each sandwich is custom-made with condiments and cheeses.

Kohne says when you order a sandwich, the bread has been baked within

the hour.

For Christmas, C’est Si Bon prepares beautiful bakery items.

Choose from a traditional Buche de Noel (Christmas log) available in

three flavors: chocolate; chocolate/Grand Marnier; and

chocolate/Chambord. It’s made in three sizes: The 7-inch log (serves

seven to 10) for $28; a 10-inch log (serves 10 to 12) for $38; and a

14-inch log (serves 14 to 18) for $48. Christmas Bombe is a gorgeous,

pure-white Belgian chocolate mousse made with fresh raspberries

inside a chocolate mocha cake, covered with white chocolate and

decorated with holly and berries. One size only, serves 10 to 12, for

$50.

New this year are Christmas Chambord truffles ($1.35). A Belgian chocolate truffle torte is made with a fine chocolate pastry crust

and filled with rich dark chocolate ganache. A 4- to 5-inch torte

(serves two) for $5.75; a 7-inch torte (serves six to eight) for

$18.75 and a 10-inch torte (serves 12 to 14) for $29.75. Christmas

cookies include green Christmas trees, red stars or dark chocolate

reindeer ($1.10 to $1.35). Festive cheese and pate trays include a

selection of high-quality cheeses and pates served with garnishes.

Trays are based on a pre-person serving size -- served with two

baguettes for every 10 people. Brie en croute comes in three sizes,

for eight to 10 people ($25); 20 to 22 people ($40) and 45 to 50

people ($80).

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.