News for the new year at Surf and Sand Resort
Glori Fickling
On the brink of a new year, it is a pleasure to report exciting new
happenings at the Surf and Sand Resort, where a whopping $6.5 million
renovation of the property is in the offing. Add to this, general
manager Blaise Bartell has just announced the appointment at Splashes
of food and beverage director, Gary Murray, in concert with executive
chef, Matthew McClinn.
A native of Scotland, the energetic Murray has impressive
worldwide associations in the hotel industry. His acclaim in the
restaurant realm embraces a career launched in the Scottish
Highlands, continuing on to Switzerland, then reaching across the
globe from Kuwait to Palm Springs and to Chicago, where the Four
Seasons Hotel was his a destination. His current position in the Surf
and Sand Resort follows tenure at St. Regis Resort in nearby Dana
Point.
The talented McClinn, who hails from Scottsdale, Ariz., has been
honing his culinary skills since age 15 when he was first attracted
to the industry doing odd jobs in local kitchens, ultimately moving
up the ladder to work with several prestigious chefs at eminent
domains.
His innovative approach to the culinary arts appears much more
intrinsically oriented than gleaned from a brief training stint at
the California Culinary Academy. Impressive, too, are McClinn’s
personal contacts with diverse epicurean sources, from which he
obtains prime ingredients for his many recipes. Tender Kobe pork from
Japan becomes kurabuta roast pork; sweet butter imported from
Normandy, France, is carved into tiny round cakes frosted with sea
salt and sprinkled with pink peppercorns to accompany with the basket
of bread.
There is some sort of magical rapport between these fascinating
entrepreneurs, each of whom complements the other as much in their
compatible sense of humor as in their definitive approach to just
what creative dining is all about.
For openers, to assure consistency, the dinner menu is now
seasonally oriented, rather than altered on a daily basis. The bill
of fare commences with an intriguing tasting menu paired with
suggested wines for each of five courses. Typifying McClinn’s
creative concept of appetizers is an awesome taste sensation
featuring a single plump poached Maine scallop nestled atop shredded
Kobe pork then posed on a slice of vanilla-poached persimmon.
Suggested wine is sauvignon blanc New Zealand 2004.
The salad course combines crisp shavings of celery root, apples
and walnuts in creamy black truffle vinaigrette with suggested Stags
Leap chardonnay 2000. Next is lump crab fricassee tossed in brown
butter with roasted chestnuts, Serrano ham and crisp potato gnocchi,
paired with pinot noir 2002.
A second entree stars confit of veal with marinated rapini, crispy
artichokes and parmesan cheese, a 2002 Merlot with this.
For a finale, velvety chocolate valhrona gateau enhanced with wild
strawberry gelato is complemented with Dow’s vintage port, 1994.
Tariff for all this bounty is $68 a person, add $45 with wine
recommendations.
The dinner lineup offers a half dozen main courses priced from $9
to $18. For starters, roasted chestnut soup is wafted with red wine
and crowned with a little scoop of truffle ice cream to swirl as you
ladle the broth to your lips.
Appetizers range from $9 for roast apple/parsnip soup with curried
pork confit to $18 for lobster salad with asparagus, parmesan
ribbons, white truffle honey and lemon vinaigrette.
Ten main courses commence with braised veal parmesan in lemon
black pepper risotto at $24, going to $36 for prime New York steak
with creamed spinach. McClinn’s innovative spin emerges again in
family-style dinners presented en casserole for three or more at $26
to $35 a person.
Current entrees are ginger poached lobster bouillabaisse with
tomato confit risotto and saffron rouille; and a roast bistro du
jour, which may be leg of lamb, beef stew or classic Stroganoff.
Beyond dramatic room renovations forthcoming, Murray’s inspired
design ideas promise delicious surprises for the opulent restaurant
and for the upscale cocktail lounge, provocatively perched atop our
sandy beach.
NEWS BITES
For anyone hoping to get back in shape after too much holiday
over-indulgence, executive chef James Boyce at Studio in the Montage
Resort and Spa is introducing a vegetable/herb tasting menu that
promises plenty of low-cal taste sensations all through the month of
January. The five-course dinner will be $80 per person, and $25 more
with pairings of nonalcoholic wines. Studio is open Tuesday through
Sunday from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Phone: (949) 715-6000.
To learn more from Boyce, tune in to the “Today Show,” Jan. 12 on
Channel 4 and watch him demonstrate the art of creating deliciously
crisp fish tacos. The show will air from 7 to 10 a.m. and the segment
is scheduled for 9 a.m. For more information, phone Marguerite Clark,
(949) 715-6116.
* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has
written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.
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