Atelier gives Troquet a nice, private touch

GREER WYLDER

Atelier is the latest venue in Orange County for private dining

options. It’s an annex to Troquet, a sophisticated French Bistro at

South Coast Plaza.

Troquet and Atelier are both run by Tim and Liza Goodell, who own

a sextet of reputable restaurants in Orange County and Los Angeles.

The Goodells were named “one of the country’s most talented husband

and wife teams” by Gourmet magazine.

With Atelier’s affiliation to Troquet, events are coordinated with

the same service, attention to detail and cuisine. Zagat gave

Troquet’s modern version of classic bistro food a top rating.

Executive chef Tim Goodell oversees Atelier’s menu tailored for

each event. Specialties include homemade breads, moules frites

(steamed Prince Edward Island mussels with French fries) and unique

desserts. Guests can also order from popular items on Troquet’s menu,

including herb-roasted chicken, braised short ribs, black truffled

macaroni and cheese, and an array of fresh oysters on the half shell.

Atelier fills the need for an upscale private dining facility.

“With all the social activity and business that is centered around

South Coast Plaza, it is only natural for a private dining and

banquet area to be available inside the highly-frequented shopping

resort,” said Craig Pendergraph, general manager of both locations.

Troquet is known for foie gras prepared in any way, shape or form,

and specialty foie gras dishes change weekly. They can include seared

Hudson Valley foie gras with dried tart cherries and cherry syrup

($21). A rich foie gras sauce comes with the petite filet mignon,

served with crispy potato cake, wilted spinach and braised cippolini

onions ($33). It’s also made into a terrine, or torchon (served

chilled, in a cylinder shape) with orange and fig marmalade and toast

points.

There’s also a big following for Troquet’s macaroni and cheese. It

has black truffles, a mix of premium cheeses including Gruyere,

Parmesan-Reggiano, fontina and blue cheese, with gratineed

breadcrumbs on top.

Other favorite dishes include the prime steak tartare served with

black olive tapenade and quail egg ($14). The Eastern spotted

skatewing can be served with pomme puree, Chinese broccoli, and

sherry caper beurre noisette ($26). The Maple Leaf duck is prepared

two ways; roasted and confit ravioli with baby turnips, lavender date

jus ($27).

A great starter salad is the haricot vert and Point Reyes blue

frisee with candied walnuts, and creme fraiche dressing ($14); or

Troquet’s take on Caesar salad with sourdough croutons, Grana Padano

parmesan and crispy capers ($9).

Purveyors handpick specialty produce and provide high quality

meats and seafood for Troquet that include cippolini onions

(bittersweet wild onions), purslane (a citrus-flavored lettuce/herb

that is rich and acidic), Chinese broccoli, Scottish salmon and

dry-aged New York steaks.

Pastry chef Nicole Lindsy creates bitter almond panna cotta served

with poached pear and a Poire Williams tea-infused spice reduction; a

dense Valrhona chocolate souffle with espresso anglaise and prune and

armagnac ice cream; and perfectly creamy and crisp profiteroles with

espresso ice cream and bittersweet chocolate veloute. All desserts

are $8.

Ice creams are made fresh here ($6).

There are six specialty cheeses to choose from, including Sally

Jackson earthy goat’s milk in grape leaves; Red Hawk triple cream,

washed rind cow’s milk; and El Cantu aged goat’s milk. The

three-cheese selection is $13 with the five-cheese selection at $18.

Atelier also shares the same vibe as Troquet. It features an

elegant decor with a metropolitan ambience. The walls are painted in

dark burgundy hues, with mirrored treatments, mahogany woods and

other sophisticated European touches.

Atelier can seat up to 125 guests for celebrations, corporate

events, meeting and elegant parties. The room can also be converted

to accommodate smaller gatherings. Atelier also has audio/visual

equipment and a baby grand piano.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.