Ocean Avenue Brewery serves it right

Lauren Vane

I have always placed breweries in a certain category of restaurants:

good tasting food and a menu with all the standard American choices,

but not necessarily a destination dining experience. Most of all,

what comes to mind is the kind of food that goes well with beer and

will stick with you through the night, should you chose it to be a

long one.

Ocean Avenue Brewery and Restaurant does have beer, but it is much

more than a brewery, and the food stands alone.

When my friend and I arrived at Ocean Avenue on a Saturday night

the dining room was crowded and buzzing with conversation. Bold

imaged artwork hung from the walls and colorful fabrics were draped

from the ceiling, creating an intimate atmosphere in the small space.

It was loud inside, so despite the pouring rain we opted for seating

on the covered outside patio. Out of the rain and with the heat lamps

blazing, it was just the perfect temperature.

The second we sat down, our server greeted us with a basketful of

tasty focaccia accompanied by an olive oil and balsamic dipping

sauce. The dinner was already off to a good start.

All memories of my previous experiences with brewery food quickly

dissolved when I opened the menu. This was not the kind of food you

wash down with a gulp of beer; the offerings were anything but

standard.

The appetizers spanned a spectrum of tastes, from bruschetta ($5)

to blue-crab seasoned Crab Cakes ($6). My friend and I settled on the

calamari ($8.50). Served with both spicy sauce and cilantro aioli,

this calamari dish definitely makes my top 10, and I’ve eaten a lot

of calamari. It was lightly breaded, perfectly crunchy and not one

bit soggy. We both agreed that the cilantro aioli was amazing. I

wanted to inhale the entire plate, but I restrained myself, knowing

that the entrees were looking pretty promising.

The selection of soups and salads was plentiful and many sounded

delicious, but I was hungry and the heartier numbers on the other

side of the menu were calling. I was intrigued to find sandwiches on

the dinner menu, and although I’m not a sandwich fan, it is a nice

break from the heavier dinner entrees if you’re looking for something

lighter. The entree list also featured several pizzas, from the

gourmet to the basic, a good option for the picky eaters in the

group.

As a self-proclaimed pasta fanatic, my heart leapt at every pasta

dish on the menu. From penne with tiger shrimp, scallops and broccoli

in a chardonnay sauce to a classic capellini with basil, garlic and

marinara, they all looked good. All the entrees were moderately

priced and came with the choice of two sides.

Ultimately, I met my match on the list of nightly specials.

Chicken Marsala with garlic mashed potatoes was a sure bet. My friend

also ordered from the specials menu, selecting a penne pasta with

goat cheese, tomato and eggplant.

As we waited for our food, I noticed the restaurant clearing out

and the staff stacking up tables. Eating late as it was, we were

quickly reminded that Ocean Avenue transforms into quite the hotspot

after hours. The tables were being cleared around us and it was

slightly disruptive, but the entrees arrived quickly and the food

captured my attention.

The first bite of tender chicken drenched in creamy Marsala sauce

was a little piece of heaven and I was hooked. The vegetables and

heaping pile of garlic mashed potatoes complimented the chicken. The

food was rich, but I still managed to make quite a dent. My friend’s

pasta was equally as tasty. The goat cheese in the tomato and

eggplant sauce boosted the flavor intensity of an otherwise

traditional dish.

Though I tried to keep eating, neither one of us could even come

close to finishing the large portions on our plates. Thankfully, the

servers packed each of us a take home container.

By this time, the restaurant was a full-on nightclub and we were

the last remaining table. The DJ was spinning so we decided to stay

and enjoy the party. As everyone flocked to the dance floor that had

now replaced the dining room, I was still thinking about the food.

After consuming a deliciously un-regrettable amount of calories, I

stowed my leftovers in a corner and made my way for the floor to

dance off every bite.