Get a guide to Indian food at Ashoka

John Volo

I recall an old black and white movie where the star, about to embark

on an expedition in some exotic locale, screamed, “Get me an Indian

guide.”

So, before embarking on my own journey to Ashoka Cuisine of India,

I enlisted the help of my own Indian guide -- my

friend/neighbor/loaner of tools, Bob. Because he has frequented

Ashoka for several years, I thought Bob would be just the lunch

partner I needed to guide me through my initial foray into Indian

cuisine. And what better way to sample many different Indian dishes

than Ashoka’s lunch buffet.

For $6.95, you can set sail on a tour of Indian cuisine that

includes 10 hot entrees, two soups, two desserts, a small salad bar

and freshly baked naan.

We got garlic naan (think: flatbread or pita bread) that came warm

from the clay oven. We ate it as is and with chutney, which is like

an Indian version of salsa. The tamarin chutney, a thin plum-colored

sauce that tastes like jelly, worked as a dip, while the

wasabi-looking mint chutney, worked as a spread. The naan was my

co-favorite of the day (more on my other favorite to follow).

While Bob went for the tomato soup, I got a cup of the mulgatwani

soup. I was now in uncharted territory; my only reference point being

a “Seinfeld” episode in which the Soup Nazi serves up mulgatwani

soup. The mulgatwani (for some reason, I love saying this word),

which resembles pea soup on a diet, is actually a chicken broth with

lentils. It was not my cup of soup (pun intended).

On my next trip to the buffet line, I loaded up with rice, chicken

and veggies. The basmati rice, a product of northern India, is thin

white rice with specks of saffron. I certainly didn’t expect to find

saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, at a seven-dollar lunch

buffet (nor did I expect cloth napkins and glass covered

tablecloths).

The tandoori chicken is a barbecued chicken leg cooked in a

tandoor -- a clay oven that uses intense heat to cook meats very

quickly, thus sealing in the juices. Sauteed onions accompanied this

succulent chicken. The allou palak, which reminded me of zesty

creamed spinach, is chunks of potato mixed with spinach and spices.

My third go round led me to my other co-favorite, the vegetable

samosa. This is like a puff pastry shell filled with a mixture of

smashed potatoes, peas, and spices. To me, the vegetable samosa was

reminiscent of a spicy potato knish. I also got the kadai

chicken--boneless chunks of chicken in a curry sauce (no Indian meal

would be complete without the requisite curry dish) with peppers and

onions. The baingan barta was shredded, charbroiled eggplant with

peas and pieces of tomato. This eggplant dish, because of its

after-spice, works best on a bed of soothing rice.

Bob really enjoyed his dessert. He got the kheer badami (rice

pudding). Although Bob used his spoon, this pudding was definitely

drinkable. I opted for a donut-hole imposter called gulab jamon. This

nugget of fried dough is completely saturated with sugary syrup that

squirts out when bitten. It’s so insanely sweet; people should be

cautioned about ingesting more than one for fear of sugar overdose.

Ashoka also has an expansive dinner menu, featuring almost a dozen

lamb dishes (which Bob raves about), a variety of shrimp and seafood

entrees and many vegetarian delights.

With my trusty guide by my side, I found the lunch buffet at

Ashoka the perfect way to introduce myself to the world of Indian

cuisine.

* JOHN VOLO is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, e-mail hbindy@latimes.com.