Ho Sum Bistro keeps things wholesome

Greer Wylder

In 1987, Robert Mah, then a professor at UCLA, opened Ho Sum Bistro

in Newport Beach. A man who’d had a heart attack at a young age, he

desired a restaurant that took healthy eating and good taste

seriously.

The restaurant served Chinese foods limited in saturated and trans

fats, concentrating on lower fat proteins (no red meat), and fresh

vegetables. Portions focused on moderation and balance.

Ed O’Neill, 44, bought the restaurant from Mah in 1990 and has

maintained the heart-healthy concept for the last 15 years. Mah, now

retired, is a frequent customer and is in good health.

Ho Sum’s cooking is Cantonese-derived, though it substitutes

Canola oil and low-sodium soy sauce for the usual heavy oils. It was

even featured in “Healthy Dining in Orange County,” a guide that

details nutritional information of entrees served at popular

restaurants.

Six of Ho Sum Bistro’s dishes were evaluated for the guide,

including the Ho Sum Chicken Salad, Ho Sum Dumplings, Sesame Steamed

Vegetables, Califoriental Rice, Chinese Pepper Chicken and Quenelles.

Each dish rates as an excellent health choice for intake of calories,

fats or cholesterol.

O’Neill attributed Ho Sum’s success to chef Gregorio Garcia and

his dedicated waiting staff, most of whom have worked there for at

least eight years.

“Keeping good people is key. We’ve put a lot of people through

college, and they continue working here after graduation,” O’Neill

said. “Garcia makes all of the sauces. Every time you come in, the

food is going to be consistent.”

Ho Sum has earned a loyal following over the years. Many of the

regulars come in three to four times a week.

In many cases, those regulars want things done their way. Even the

most popular Ho Sum Chicken Salad ($5.25 to $7.95), a mix of roasted

and shredded chicken breast with lettuce, red ginger dressing and

wontons, can be custom-made.

“Everybody who comes here orders it a different way,” O’Neill

said. “It gets a little tedious, but we have to do it.”

Ho Sum’s menu has changed over the years, but the prices have

remained low. Prices range from $3.25 for edamame, to $8.95 for a

large combination salad. The value restaurant also serves large

portions.

“We’ve replaced some of the original menu items. We spend a long

time developing new recipes, place them on the menu as specials, and

if they’re ordered enough, they go on the regular menu.” O’Neill

said.

Recent additions include the Oriental artichoke, a steamed and

halved artichoke sauteed in a sweet and spicy sauce ($4.95); steamed

edamame ($3.25) and the bao (lean cuts of pork loin, barbecued and

wrapped in a fluffy, steamed bun ($5.45).

The popular menu items include Ho Sum’s three lunch specials

served from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Saturday. The specials are a

combination of two half-orders from a five-item menu. Choices include

the Ho Sum chicken salad; sesame seed salad (romaine lettuce tossed

with sesame seeds and shredded chicken with sesame oil and vinegar

dressing); hot and sour soup; Califoriental chicken broth with

Chinese vegetables and tofu; and the vegetable, pork or chicken fried

rice ($6.50).

Other popular dishes include crispy hot and sour cucumbers and

vegetables ($3.95); minced chicken lettuce wrap with succulent pieces

of minced chicken, bell pepper, celery, mushroom and onion, all

stir-fried in a spicy sauce and served over brown rice ($7.95).

There are also 10 choices of dim sum, from pot stickers ($5.45) to

coconut shrimp with citrus ginger marmalade ($6.49). Ho Sum also

offers eight noodle dishes, featuring the including barbecued pork lo

mein tossed in oyster sauce and bean sprouts (half order $4.95, full

order $7.95), and shrimp and vegetable lo mein with tender prawns

tossed with vegetable sand oyster sauce (half-order $4.95; full order

$7.95).

Seven entrees are offered, including Szechuan chicken roasted with

garlic, ginger, scallions and cilantro, served on the bone with Ho

Sum sauce ($5.95); and Greg’s garlic chicken or shrimp, with

julienned chicken breast or shrimp tossed in a wok with garlic and

fresh vegetables ($7.95, shrimp $2 extra).

Ho Sum Bistro seats only 32 people. Since restaurant space is

tight, many customers order take-out. Catering and large take-out

orders for parties are available too.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.