Las Brisas a trip to the Mexican Riviera

Lauren Vane

After the sun had set on a brilliant Spring Friday, a friend and I

took a walk down to Las Brisas to celebrate the beginning of the

return of long, sunny days.

Skin still tingling from a sunburn acquired earlier in the day,

the warm night air blew off the ocean as we walked the flower-lined

path to the restaurant.

The outdoor patio facing Heisler Park was filled with couples

crowded around tiny tables. Despite the optimal outdoor temperature,

we opted for indoor seating, as only light dinner is available on the

patio.

I had made a reservation ahead of time -- a good idea, because

this restaurant is a tourist favorite -- and we were seated quickly.

Just as the restaurant claims, a step inside is like a trip to the

Mexican Riviera. The dining room is tastefully decorated in rich

brown wood, with subtle accents of blue and white. The ocean view,

seen from nearly every table, adds a finishing touch to make the

atmosphere fresh and airy.

The dining room is by no means quiet; we had to raise our voices

just to have a conversation across the table. But the noise was just

a testament to the lively crowd that filled the restaurant.

Glancing at the drink menu, I knew that a colorful margarita was

just the thing to cool down my sunburn. Named for local beaches, I

ordered the Main Beach Margarita, and my friend went north for the

Diver’s Cove version (each $7.89).

I was not surprised when the menu did not contain the usual

suspects of Mexican restaurant cuisine. The nachos and beef taquitos

were nowhere to be seen, and this was a welcome change. Instead, the

choices were intriguing and seemingly unpredictable.

For starters, we ordered the Sopa de Frijol Negro ($5.50), a

pureed black bean soup served with a colorful dish of condiments. I

must admit, I chose the soup because, as the restaurant makes note on

the menu, it was featured in Gourmet Magazine. The soup was creamy

and tasted a lot more flavorful than the bean soup I was expecting.

My friend ordered the Ensalada Las Brisas ($5.50), a mixed green

salad with asparagus, artichoke hearts, hearts of palm tomatoes and

herb dressing. My friend enjoyed the salad and commented on the

freshness of all the ingredients.

I have heard rumors about the hefty price tag associated with the

restaurant and was starting to think those rumors unfounded -- until

I looked at the entrees.

No, the main courses weren’t cheap, but if you choose wisely, you

can leave the restaurant satisfied and not penniless. But right then

and there, I wrote the night off as a splurge and ordered based

purely on my culinary desires.

Turns out what I desired was one of the more affordable choices:

the Caleta ($14.95), a seafood enchilada stuffed with shrimp and

scallops, accompanied by my choice of steak, chicken or fish soft

taco. The seafood enchilada was new to my taste buds: sweet, spicy

and rich -- all at once. The sauce was hot, a little too spicy for

me, but thankfully my margarita was there to put out the fire, and I

could keep eating.

My dining companion raised the stakes and ordered the Salmon a la

Parrilla ($22.75), salmon grilled with fried leeks, fennel-jalapeno

mashed potatoes, vegetables and asparagus-chile sauce.

Judging by both our choices, it’s clear that seafood dishes are a

staple at Las Brisas, and for good reason -- the kitchen does an

excellent job preparing the dishes in a unique way that comes as a

pleasant surprise.

For the finishing course, I could not resist ordering a dessert.

The Coconut Flan ($5.95) stood out on the menu. Served with fresh

berries, the flan was small, and I was happy it wasn’t any larger or

I would have eaten much more than I should have.

As we were leaving, I think I heard my stomach say thank you.