Before Newport’s restaurant row

ROBERT GARDNER

* EDITOR’S NOTE: The Daily Pilot has agreed to republish The Verdict,

the ever-popular column written for many years by retired Corona Del

Mar jurist and historian Robert Gardner, in exchange for donations to

the Surfrider Foundation. This particular column was originally

published on March 20, 1993.

Newport Beach is justly proud of its unique restaurant row that

stretches along the harbor front. I know of no other place that has

so many fine restaurants strung together virtually next to each

other. You can literally step from one fine eating house to the next.

As I say, it’s unique. However, in the early days, this area was a

string of boat yards and Corona del Mar had its own restaurant row of

fine eating places. I’m speaking of the post-World War II era, the

1940s and 1950s.

Starting at the east end of the row we had the Hurley Bell -- now

the Five Crowns -- operated by Fred and Mildred Hershon. The Hurley

Bell was possibly the finest eating place this town ever sported.

Ostensibly operated by Fred, not a dish left the kitchen without

undergoing careful inspection by Mildred. The Hurley Bell’s food was

superlative. For example:

One day, I was watching a high-stakes gin rummy game in the locker

room of the Irvine Coast Country Club. One of the players, John

Curci, asked me to play his hand while he answered a phone call. I

did. I drew one card, ginned and looked in awe at the biggest pile of

money I had ever seen. When John came back, he shoved the money at me

and told me to arrange a gourmet dinner for the players, their wives,

Katie and myself. I went to Fred Hershon, simply gave him the money

and asked him to put together the best meal he could. He did. The

ensuing meal was memorable. The others, who were not exactly

unsophisticated in such matters, agreed it was the finest meal they

had ever had.

Proceeding west on Coast Highway, we came to the Chef’s Inn on the

location now occupied by the Studio Cafe. The Chef’s Inn, operated by

Hugh and Claudia Hutson, was probably the most popular eating place

in town. It featured at the piano bar a superlative musician named

Mel whose last name I cannot remember. Mel was no ordinary saloon

minstrel; he was a fine classical musician and music teacher.

Across the street was the Drift Room, operated by “Monte”

Montgomery and his wife, Reba. Under Reba’s careful supervision, the

Drift Room could hold its own with any restaurant in town. (I’m not

ignoring the Quiet Woman, but it came along a little later, about

1965 as I remember.)

Further west was Rossi’s Cafe, located on the site now occupied by

Matteo’s. Operated by Joe and Adelaide “Mama” Rossi, it was probably

the finest Italian restaurant I have ever patronized. Mama Rossi

featured her pickled mushrooms, which had to be tasted to be

believed. I have always thought that her pickled mushrooms were

particularly good because Mama Rossi used wild mushrooms she picked

on the hills surrounding the present Fashion Island.

At the end of the Row was the Jamaica Inn, located at the corner

of Avocado and Coast Highway (it’s not there anymore). Built by Bob

Ingram and Joe Collins as a restaurant and motel, the restaurant was

operated first by Fred Button and later by Art LaShelle, who brought

to the place the expertise he had honed during his operation of

Christian’s Hut.

There’s nothing wrong with Corona del Mar’s present restaurant

row, which features some outstanding restaurants. They should be.

They have a rich tradition to follow.

* ROBERT GARDNER, a Corona del Mar resident and a retired judge,

is a longtime observer of life in Newport Beach.