Rhythm of the paddle

Lauren Vane

Throughout the city of Laguna Beach, an abundance of vantage points

offer spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. But to find the best

view of the city, from the canyons to the coves, you’ve got to get

out on the water.

Floating in a sit-on-top kayak off Shaw’s Cove, Laguna’s miles of

rocky coastline stretch out like a Technicolor mural. The sun beats

down in slices through the morning fog, and the only sounds you hear

are the soft slap of water against the side of the kayak or the

distant barking of sea lions.

What a way to spend a Sunday morning -- or any time of any day,

for that matter.

Our morning kayak excursion began at Fisherman’s Cove where we met

up with Jeff Hackett, a guide with local kayaking tour company La

Vida Laguna. Walking down the dirt path to the small cove, I worried

when I saw large swells repeatedly crashing on shore. As we went over

safety precautions and instructions, Hackett said the swells were

nothing to worry about.

He was right. The swells calmed into rolling waves once we passed

the surf line and the kayak was smooth and stable. Paddling out past

Shaw’s Cove toward Crescent Bay, a flock of pelicans cut through the

sky like a formation of fighter jets, swooping down and flying at

what seemed to be only a millimeter above the water.

Aside from seals and pelicans, our only company that morning was a

lone kayaker fishing. Though he said he hadn’t caught anything yet,

fishing in the area typically yields a good catch, Hackett said.

We milled around Crescent Bay while Hackett shared his story of

wrangling a 42-pound halibut (he had photos to prove it). The fish

put up such a fight that it took several bites on the arm and a

sunken kayak to finally reel him in, Hackett said.

Though snagging such a large fish might be a rarity for the

recreational kayaker, La Vida Laguna guides often take guests out on

kayak fishing tours. According to La Vida Laguna founder Billy Fried,

it’s not uncommon to catch sand bass, calico bass or halibut.

One of the better spots to get a bite lies about a thousand feet

off Heisler Park, where it is legal to fish, Fried said.

We weren’t fishing that morning, but the scenery was entertainment

enough. A cluster of California sea lions came into view on the back

side of Seal Rock -- a sight not visible from land. Seal Rock is a

popular place on the North Laguna kayak tour, Hackett said. A family

photo with swimming seals in the background is a picture sure to make

it into the scrapbook.

The best part about kayaking is that it’s something everyone can

do, Fried said. If you’re comfortable on the water and you don’t get

sea sick, you can kayak. The sit-on-top kayaks do not have skirts

that tie you in and they are stable and easy to get in and out of.

Since he started La Vida Laguna three years ago, Freed said he’s

taken out guests ranging in age from 3 to 85.

The company is diligent about safety. Guests receive instructions

and are required to wear a life preserver. Thankfully, no one tipped

the kayak on our trip.

The two-hour North Laguna tour continues to Irvine Cove, then

loops back around to Heisler Park. If water visibility is good, Fried

said he likes to take guests to explore the reefs in between Shaw’s

Cove and Crescent Bay.

In the summer, they jump off the kayaks and go snorkeling. The

underwater views at Treasure Island and the North Laguna reefs are

reminiscent of the Caribbean, Fried said. Starting this summer, La

Vida Laguna will lead a land-based snorkeling expedition from

Treasure Island.

Kayaking in Laguna isn’t limited to the north end of town;

cruising the coves of South Laguna -- a trip offering mountain views

and more open water -- is also an option. La Vida Laguna’s South

Laguna tour begins at Treasure Island and takes adventurers out to

Victoria Beach and back around to Aliso Beach.

As for today, I’ll have to save the south end for another time.

After nearly two hours of paddling, my arms felt heavy as we paddled

in to beach the kayaks back at Fisherman’s Cove. Just as we were

pulling the boats on shore, I caught a glimpse of a large moving

object in the water not far off shore. It wasn’t a floating mass of

kelp, but a gray whale likely making it’s way up north with a newborn

calf. Had the whale arrived minutes earlier we would have been

kayaking right on top of it.

So as summer creeps in and the traffic begins to line up on Coast

Highway, ditch the car and pick up a paddle; you never know what you

might see. A kayaking trip through the coves of Laguna is a naturally

air-conditioned tour with views you just can’t get from land.