Barbecue brunch good bet for Dad

Greer Wylder

This Father’s Day, treat dad to a king’s barbecue brunch at Accents

Restaurant in the Sutton Place Hotel.

The brunch will be expertly crafted by executive chef Theo Ioannou

(pronounced “Ee-wahn-oo”), who has cooked a private dinner at

Kensington Palace for Prince Andrew, Prince Edward and Princess

Sophie Rhys-Jones. He also prepared deluxe meals for 1,200 guests on

the Queen Elizabeth 2.

Chef Ioannou, born in Cyprus and raised in London, comes from a

family of restaurant owners and maitre-d’s. His grandfather owned a

flambe restaurant at Harrod’s. Yet Ioannou, 39, learned to cook

because his mother couldn’t.

“It was terrible,” Ioannou said with a laugh. “It could take her

three days to roast a turkey.”

Ioannou enrolled in a prestigious culinary school in Cyprus at 16,

and then enjoyed a successful career cooking in London. He’s also

worked at gastronomically celebrated Michelin-rated restaurants in

London.

“It’s without a doubt the culinary capital of the world,” Ioannou

said of London.

Gourmet Magazine agrees with him. In its March issue dedicated to

London’s culinary scene, editor Ruth Reichl said emphatically, “At

this moment, London is the world’s best place to eat.”

Ioannou left London four years ago to live in Southern California

to be near his wife’s family.

Ioannou said kitchens in Europe and in Orange County have entirely

different atmospheres.

“There’s a ruthless energy in London -- knives, plates and hot oil

are thrown in kitchens,” Ioannou said. “There’s a lot of verbal

abuse.”

Yet Ioannou misses London for its access to superior varieties of

fresh produce flown in daily from Holland, Greece, Spain and Italy --

first-press olive oils, Devon cream and the little pockets of

multicultural restaurants and specialty food stores.

In Orange County, the camaraderie and cool temperaments in Newport

Beach are refreshing. He’s impressed by varieties of fresh seafood,

some he’s never even seen. He enjoys creating dishes from new

discoveries.

“This halibut is the best in the world,” Ioannou said. “The tuna,

lobster and swordfish are excellent, and the cherrystone clams

amazing.”

At Accents, Ioannou prepares a few dishes from his London

background. When in season, he serves rosemary lamb canon (the best

cut of the lamb) with white bean cassoulet; zucchini and wild

mushroom galette (a round flat pastry); and steamed turbo with

scallop and lobster mousse and lemon saffron nage.

Ioannou doesn’t take credit for implementing Sutton Place’s

barbecue brunch. It’s the hotel’s 15-year tradition. He does add

expertise and love for international flavors.

The patio sizzles during brunch on the atrium garden of Accents

Restaurant. Barbecue choices include Angus beef sirloin, San Luis

gourmet sausages, baby back ribs, free-range chicken and fresh

seafood.

Inside, guests can enjoy an international seafood display of

Washington state oysters, jumbo shrimp, crab legs, New Zealand

mussels, poached salmon and sushi. Families can also select from a

steamship of beef, as well as breakfast crowd pleasers like custom

omelets, waffles and eggs Benedict.

Dessert choices include imported and domestic cheeses, as well as

a decadent display of petit fours, truffles, ice cream bars and

chocolate fondue.

Brunch is served from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Prices are $49 for

adults, including complimentary house champagne; $20 per child ages 6

to 11; and no charge for children 5 and under.

Accents won three prestigious culinary awards for its cuisine,

service and wine list from the Southern California Restaurant Writers

Assn.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.