New Wild Rabbit has high expectations

Greer Wylder

Bunny Bowers grew up in Bangkok and never dreamed of owning a

restaurant, let alone two. She wanted to be an artist and still loves

painting.

Yet she couldn’t shake her heritage. Her mother owned a restaurant

and her grandmother was an incredible cook. The more Bowers worked in

restaurants, the more she learned to satisfy her expression of art

through cooking gourmet meals, plate presentation, and enhancing a

dining room’s decor.

She’s the proud owner of two Wild Rabbit restaurants. The original

Redlands location opened in 1992, and its newest location is in Costa

Mesa.

Bowers, 37, left Thailand 20 years ago and said running a

restaurant in Costa Mesa is a breeze compared with back home.

“In Thailand, when we bought food, we had to take a bus at five in

the morning to a market and then haul everything by hand back home,”

Bowers said. “It was a lot of work.”

She’s still in awe of the convenience of having high-quality

meats, and fresh fish and produce delivered right to her kitchen.

The Wild Rabbit in Redlands enjoys a loyal following, and Bowers

is looking forward to a long stay in Costa Mesa. Locals who may have

passed by the restaurant’s sign, near the Irvine Ranch Market on

Irvine Avenue and Mesa Drive, are just discovering its classic and

Asian-influenced cuisine and friendly atmosphere.

Bowers is a serious cook who prepares all sauces daily. The Wild

Rabbit’s menu consists of 11 years’ worth of experimenting and

refinement. She’s borrowed ideas from the sous chefs at the Redlands

Wild Rabbit, and even took time off to return to Thailand to attend

culinary school.

She also trained chef Mark Torres, who works in the Costa Mesa

location, sending him to culinary school in Pasadena.

Many dishes are Asian-influenced, such as the Thai sausage

appetizer served with spicy, sweet and sour sauce ($6.95); the Thai

egg roll salad with greens, egg, roasted peanuts, sliced cucumber,

tomato and spicy, sweet and sour dressing ($8.95); and the

flame-broiled pork tenderloin marinated with olive oil, garlic, fresh

rosemary and soy ginger sauce ($10.95).

Daily specials always include the latest fresh ingredients. Bowers

favors the newest cut of meat, flat iron steak -- a tender cut of

meat similar to a strip or loin steak. She incorporates flat iron

steak as a surf and turf special.

Her ahi tuna with roasted peppercorn, avocado, hoisin and soy

ginger is another favorite.

The Wild Rabbit accommodates vegetarian diets by offering meat

substitutes for many dishes, including alternatives to bacon, chicken

and even a garden burger.

It also serves customers looking for classic lunch dishes. It

serves Cobb salads ($7.95 to $9.95); barbecue bacon cheeseburgers

($8.95); French dip sandwiches ($8.95), and Reuben sandwiches

($8.95). Sandwiches come with beer-battered French fries, homemade

potato salad or fresh fruit.

The restaurant’s signature dishes include classics, such as Beef

Wellington, a tender filet topped with pate and mushrooms baked in a

puff pastry with Bordelaise sauce ($29.95); steak Diane, a

pan-broiled filet mignon with garlic, shallots, mushrooms, Dijon

Bordelaise, cream and brandy ($29.95); and the charbroiled Australian

rack of lamb with peppercorn honey Dijon sauce ($25.95).

Entrees are served with vegetables and roasted potatoes, and your

choice of soup or green salad.

Bowers spent four months remodeling the restaurant, a former sushi

bar. She filled it with antique furniture, lace, wood paneling, an

indoor fountain and a garden area.

“I want people to feel as if they’re in their parents’ or family

home,” Bowers said.

Since opening the Costa Mesa restaurant, she spends her free time

exploring the Little Saigon section of Westminster for foods from

Asia, and working on an expanded wine list (mostly California and New

Zealand wines), and watching the new garden at her home in Costa

Mesa. She has planted lemongrass, mint, Thai basil, key limes and

guavas that remind her of Thailand.

She’s also adding a lounge downstairs with live music, and is

hoping to receive a full liquor license in September.

Live jazz, blues and soft rock is performed from 7:30 p.m. to

closing Fridays and Saturdays in the garden room.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.