Star gives stellar performance

You may not see stars if you visit Star Cafe in Montrose, but you

might have a stellar, if casual, meal. This comfortable spot has been

popular with locals since the 1980s, and the saw-dusted floors and

relaxed atmosphere make it especially family-friendly. An

air-conditioned, enclosed patio up the back stairs offers a respite

from the clanging kitchen clatter up front.

Soft, fragrant, oil-rich rolls are brought to the table

immediately. The bread, flecked with pepper flakes and spice, is

frighteningly addictive. (The Princess Daughter, unpacking a “to go”

order, mused “Where did these come from? I know these rolls ... “)

Bread and soup can make a meal, and Star does soups well. On a hot

night, the gazpacho is as refreshing as a run through the sprinklers.

Cold crunch and tang is the first impression of this tomato, avocado

and shrimp-laden chiller (bowl $6.95, cup $4.95).

Corn and Green Chile Chowder is also invigorating, though it’s

served hot. The primary flavor is of herbaceous, not-too-hot chiles,

with corn and potato providing balance.

Salads are another meal-in-a-bowl option. The Jackie-O is a

classic Greek salad with crisp romaine added to the traditional

cucumber, tomato, onion, Kalamata olives and feta. A creamy, garlicky

dressing may be less traditional, but no less tasty (half $7.95, full

$9.95). Most salads (Boston Diane Salad, Barbecued Chicken Chopped

Salad or Italian-Style Chopped) are thoughtfully offered in half and

full portions.

A wood-fired oven offers bubble-crusted pizzas in a variety of

creative combinations. The Barbecued Chicken Pizza is more chicken

than barbecue, which is fine by me. Big chunks of chicken dominate,

with slivers of crisp red onion atop the not overly smoky sauce

($10.95). Fresh Mushroom and Artichoke Pizza is another favorite

munch.

Pasta choices are plentiful. My Asparagus Linguini was perfectly

cooked and adorned with ribbons of sun-dried tomatoes and asparagus.

Pitted olives punctuate the plate, and a little heat sneaks in from a

touch of jalapeno in the creamy sauce (half $8.95, full $10.95).

Chicken-Tequila Spinach Fettuccine is a good choice, with colorful

pepper and red onion strips mingling with the green pasta strands and

chicken (half $9.95, full $11.95).

Other offerings include an Applewood Smoked Pork Tenderloin,

roasted and served with apple, grilled vegetables and mashed potatoes

($13.95). The meat benefits from a Marsala marinade. Mashed potatoes

are smoother than I care for -- the texture always makes me

suspicious of a box lurking somewhere.

The special featured Gelsinger’s pork chops are beautifully

grill-marked and redolent of mesquite. This excellent meat was paired

with the same overly smooth potatoes (which seemed an odd choice for

a Chinese barbecue-inspired dish), with an overabundance of

sticky-sweet sauce ($16.95). Despite the unfortunate pairings, the

chops were worth ordering.

Star Cafe offers friendly service, flavorful fare and a fun

atmosphere. That’s worthy of a gold star in my book.

Kudos: A tasty array of menu choices in a cozy neighborhood

setting.

Quibbles: Those too-too smooth mashed potatoes. How about some

wood-fire roasted spuds instead?

CHERIE MERCER TWOHY teaches cooking in La Canada. She can be

reached at www.chezcherie.com.