Beyond the jack-o’-lantern

Almost every kid loves to help carve the jack-o’-lantern at

Halloween: digging into the squishy mush up to your elbows, pulling

out the innards, saving the seeds for toasting, and consulting with

the adult knife-wielder on the number of teeth, the shape of the eyes

and whether it should be friendly or really scary. Finally, there is

the magic of giving it life by lighting the candle and placing it on

the dark porch.

What does this have to do with food? The only other time the word

pumpkin enters our vocabulary is on that other holiday, but that pie

stuff comes out of a can. Doesn’t it? Once upon a time, these orange

orbs were an important winter food for the Native Americans, who

passed them on to the pilgrims, who then used them in a wide variety

of recipes, from soups to stews.

The origin of pumpkin pie is thought to have occurred when the

colonists sliced off the pumpkin top, removed the seeds, and then

filled it with milk, spices and honey. The pumpkin was then baked in

the hot ashes of a dying fire. In other parts of the world, pumpkins

are a standard vegetable: Latin American cooks use them in

casseroles; Russian cooks combine pumpkins, fruits and meats, and

African cooks use them in many stews and curries.

Pumpkins are an excellent source of vitamin A and potassium --

half a cup of canned pumpkin has three times the recommended daily

requirement of vitamin A. Today, the seeds are considered to be

helpful in maintaining prostate health.

Did you know that the largest pumpkin ever grown weighed 1,140

pounds, and the biggest pumpkin pie ever made was over five feet in

diameter, weighed over 350 pounds and took six hours to bake?

Large pumpkins, called field pumpkins, do not make for good

eating. For cooking, you want the smaller varieties, some of which

are known as sugar pumpkins. They have a finer-grained flesh and a

sweeter, more delicate flavor. Not all small pumpkins are sugar

pumpkins, so ask at the market. If nobody knows what you’re talking

about, just use one of the small ones. They make an adequate

substitute.

When buying sugar pumpkins, look for bright orange color and be

sure the stem is still attached, as it prevents spoilage. In order to

prepare them for cooking, cut off the top and bottom, then cut down

under the skin from top to bottom, working your way around the

pumpkin as if you were cutting off the skin of an orange. Halve the

pumpkin and scrape out the seeds and pulp. Cut into pieces according

to the recipe.

Americans, who are always looking for quick and easy, prefer

cooking with the canned variety, which makes pie baking a snap and is

well-drained and dense. However, we would like to suggest that you

try this one simple fresh pumpkin recipe, which is served as an

appetizer in Afghani restaurants. It also makes a lovely vegetable

side dish (even though it is really a fruit). Or try substituting

pumpkin in any of your squash or sweet potato recipes. It’s just as

easy to use, if not easier.

Here are three recipes, one for the fresh pumpkin, one for the

canned and finally one for the seeds.

AFGHANI PUMPKIN WITH GARLICYOGURT DRESSING

o7The savory dressing contrasted with the sweet pumpkin creates a

taste revelation. This versatile dressing can be used in a cold

cucumber salad or even as a sauce for chicken breasts.f7

Serves 4 as an appetizer or side dish

1 sugar pumpkin (or 1 small regular pumpkin, approximately 8

inches in diameter)

1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon butter

water to cover

SAUCE

1 cup Trader Joe’s brand Greek yogurt or other mild yogurt

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

2 cloves finely minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill (optional)

1. Prepare pumpkin as described above and cut into 2-inch squares.

2. Put pumpkin, sugar and butter into a one-quart saucepan. Add

water to cover.

3. Boil until fork-tender but not too soft (about 15 minutes).

Drain.

4. While pumpkin is cooking, make the sauce by combining remaining

ingredients.

5. To serve, drizzle cold sauce over warm pumpkin.

* Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz owned A La Carte gourmet takeout

and catering for 20 years in Laguna Beach, where they live. They can

be contacted by e-mail at themarkos755@yahoo.como7.

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