‘Respectable’ is the word for Arbor’s

I’ve yet to procure any reasonably priced tickets to next month’s

Rolling Stones concerts at the Hollywood Bowl. So in an attempt to

scratch my rock ‘n’ roll itch, I headed to Arbor’s Steak & Seafood

restaurant to see Sticky Fingers, a Rolling Stones tribute band.

Dinner before the show seemed like a no-brainer. But when I

announced my plans to friends and neighbors, they looked at me as if

I had just proclaimed the Clippers 2006 world champions. Having never

been to Arbor’s before, I was miffed when their descriptions ran the

gamut from “grandmotherly” to “frumpy.”

When one couple -- who frequently visit Arbor’s for the live

entertainment -- told me they dine at a neighboring Italian

restaurant beforehand, I momentarily contemplated altering my plans

... until I realized I was dining with my parents, the embodiment of

frumpiness (my mom actually thought “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” was a

professional wrestler).

Arbor’s menu, much like the Sticky Fingers set list, is rooted in

classics. They offer such appetizers as jumbo shrimp cocktail and

crab-stuffed mushrooms. Time-honored entrees include a center-cut New

York strip steak topped with an onion ring, prime rib in traditional

and petite cuts, shrimp scampi, Australian lobster tail, rack of lamb

and chicken Oscar. They serve a solid Beefeater martini as well.

To get us started, our server directed us to the juicy, crispy

fried artichoke hearts served with honey-mustard sauce. We also

enjoyed some well-proportioned coconut shrimp served with a

delightfully pleasant jalapeno jelly.

Dining with my dad -- who’s fought a life-long battle with

calamari addiction -- requires partaking of some form of squid. Even

though they serve a main dish of calamari steak almandine, he opted

for the unadventurous calamari rings, which were lightly battered and

gently fried.

Australian lobster tail was one of two top-tier entrees we

relished. De-shelled tableside and served with the obligatory drawn

butter, this slightly sweet, considerably-sized crustacean justified

its market price of $42. Our other palatial dish was the baked New

Zealand rack of spring lamb, expertly prepared to our liking -- rare.

We’d have been remiss if we didn’t order one of their certified

Black Angus steaks, so we got the filet Oscar. This completely

over-the-top creation takes a bacon-wrapped filet mignon and stuffs

it with a crab-cake-like mixture before topping it with crabmeat

pieces and asparagus. As if that’s not enough, it is covered in

bearnaise sauce. Too rich. Too busy. Too much.

I know I shouldn’t have been disappointed with the charbroiled

halibut, but I was. It was a very generous piece of fish that was

also exceptionally moist. But I was disappointment with its

blandness. The alleged herb-butter topping was undetectable. This

halibut was in dire need of something -- perhaps a mango-citrus salsa

or parmesan crust.

All our entrees came with choice of garden salad (iceberg-laden),

Caesar salad (standard) or soup of the day (cream of asparagus),

along with warm sourdough bread. Entrees are accompanied by fresh

vegetables and your choice of one side dish -- baked potato, steak

fries, rice pilaf (chemical-tasting), garlic mashed potatoes

(reminiscent of whipped) or baked parmesan tomato (grated, not

shredded cheese).

For dessert we indulged in an ultra-sweet, ultra-lemony cake

topped with lemon chocolate. We also got an ice cream dessert that

tasted exactly like the chocolate eclair bars I’d get from the ice

cream truck during my childhood.

Arbor’s has a reasonably priced wine list as well as several

after-dinner coffee drinks featuring the likes of Frangelico, Kahlua

and Bailey’s.

Sticky Fingers performed a couple of my favorite songs, “Angie”

and “Tumbling Dice,” but not the Stones song that best describes

Arbor’s -- “Respectable.”

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Arbor’s

WHERE: 6060 Warner Ave., (714) 842-5111

WHEN: Dinner is served 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through

Thursday ad 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; bar is open

late.