Morton’s is another world

Step through the doors at Morton’s, and you’ve entered an upscale

cavernous vault -- another world really -- where a spiffily dressed

wait staff greets you like you’re someone special, even if your name

is not monogrammed on a private wine locker as for some of the

customers.

You’ll be whisked to a club-like table, perfectly appointed with

white linens, a manly steak knife, a glowing pewter pig lantern and

sleek comfortable black leather chairs. Dark rich mahogany woods,

colorful LeRoy Neiman serigraphs and flattering lighting makes the

experience even richer. It’s like a modern version of a 1950s

gentlemen’s club that equally welcomes women.

And for an establishment that prides itself on tradition, it’s

going out on a limb by now offering weekday lunches. The menu is a

perfect balance of Morton’s signature entrees and less-filling lunch

dishes, including chopped salads, toasted sandwiches and creamy pasta

dishes. Classic vegetable and potato side dishes are always available

too. Favorites are a whopping, award-winning 13-ounce prime sirloin

burger served with a choice of four different cheeses; sauteed

mushrooms, onions, French fries and vegetable slaw ($13); a blackened mahi-mahi sandwich with citrus bean chutney ($14); and a grilled

shrimp salad with hearts of palm, tender asparagus, tomato, crisp red

pepper, and Asian dressing ($13).

Its newly renovated bar, renamed Bar 1221, is a relaxing place to

meet for cocktails and a new Bar Bites menu. The bar features

appetizer specials from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m.; and from 9:30 to 11 p.m.

Monday through Friday. During the happy hour, oysters on the half

shell are $1 each; colossal shrimp are $2 each; and Bar Bites are $3

a plate. Appetizers available only at the bar include a crab and

artichoke dip with toasted French bread croutons; four petite filet

mignon sandwiches; potato skins with melted cheddar cheese, bacon

bits and chives; and crispy fried chicken strips.

Morton’s founders, the late Arnie Morton and Klaus Fritsch, met in

Chicago at the Playboy Club. Morton was Hugh Hefner’s partner at the

Playboy Club, and Fritsch was the executive chef. Together they

combined talents to open Morton’s, an upscale steakhouse in Chicago

in 1978 that still employs the original butcher in Illinois and buys

its meats from the same purveyor for all locations.

Morton’s at South Coast Plaza Village and Las Vegas, just off the

strip, are two of the highest volume locations in the chain. The

success at South Coast Plaza Village is due in large part to the

talents of general manager J.C. Clow, who goes out of his way to make

guests feel welcome. Clow provides a staff with impeccable service

and attention to detail. Executive chef Paul Avila prepares dishes

that are consistent and exceptional.

At Morton’s, meats are all USDA Prime and prepared in a wet aging

process rather than dry aging. Aging meats is critical to meat

tenderness. Proponents of wet aging, which takes place in an airtight

cryovac, say that it improves meat safety by eliminating exposure to

bacteria that can occur during dry aging. Wet aging also allows meats

to age without losing important moisture. It gives the meat more

flavor and a less strong and gamey taste.

Morton’s state-of-the-art infrared broilers can heat up to 1,500

degrees. Chefs sear steaks from the top, as opposed to the bottom

where juices can run out. Steaks are turned carefully only once, to

ensure that flavorful juices stay in, making meats moist, tender and

more flavorful.

Frank Sinatra helped put Morton’s on the map; he was a regular at

its original Chicago location, and to pay homage to him, Morton’s

pipes in the crooner’s classics. Morton’s is famous for its

heavy-duty portions. There’s an enormous double porterhouse steak for

two ($84) carved tableside; or an individual portion at ($42). Its

Chicago-style, bone-in, rib-eye steak ($43) can’t be beat for flavor

and tenderness. And the filet is 19 ounces of the leanest meat ($39).

Seafood connoisseurs will appreciate the tender jumbo lump crab

cakes served with French fries and vegetable slaw ($23); and the

excellent salmon fillet with beurre blanc ($26). The new lunch salad

nicoise is a traditional French version with a nice portion of

sushi-grad ahi ($18). On Friday, don’t miss the rich, puff-pastry,

seafood shell special; it’s filled with sauteed lobster, scallops and

shrimp in a lobster cream sauce ($20).

Save room for Morton’s famous hot chocolate cake. It takes 30

minutes to bake, but is worth the wait. It’s a molten-center, baked

chocolate cake, dusted with powder sugar, fresh raspberries and

served with Haagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream.

Three private dining rooms are perfect for boardroom meetings,

parties and other events. Each dining room can seat up to 50 guests

or can be linked together to accommodate 150 guests.

It’s a rarity in the hospitality industry, yet Morton’s stays true

to its roots as primarily a family restaurant and closes on all major

holidays.

Put Morton’s Steak Bible on your wish list, it’s co-authored by

Fritsch and will hit the bookstores in spring. It includes recipes

and legendary tales from the restaurant.

IF YOU GO

* WHAT: Morton’s The Steakhouse

* WHERE: 1641 W. Sunflower Ave. in South Coast Plaza Village

* WHEN: Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday;

dinner menu available from 2:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Dinner served from 5

p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays

* INFO: (714) 444-4834 or o7www.mortons.comf7

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

o7greerwylder@yahoo.comf7; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA

92626; or by fax at (714) 966-4679.