An Italian standard on Newport Harbor

IF YOU GO

* WHAT: Villa Nova

* WHERE: 3131 West Coast Highway

in Newport Beach

* WHEN: Open for dinner 5 p.m. to

midnight Monday to Saturday; 4:30 p.m.

to midnight Sundays

* INFO: (949) 642-7880

The Villa Nova restaurant, a faux Italian villa, is as much a part of Newport Beach as the Balboa Island ferry, the Balboa Pavilion and the Wedge. And the restaurant not only has aged gracefully, but it just keeps getting better.

Harbor views don’t get any better than at the Villa Nova, located on West Coast Highway just south of Newport Boulevard. It especially is perfect for catching the sunset while ordering the early dinner specials.

And now is the time to make reservations for the Christmas Boat Parade, which runs from Wed., Dec. 14 through Sun., Dec. 18. The parade passes by the Villa Nova’s big windows at 7:15 p.m.; seating begins at 6:30 p.m. A four-course boat parade menu includes appetizers, soup or salad, entree and dessert. Dinner costs $60 per person and $30 for children 10 and under.

On other nights, the twilight dining menu is a bargain and a terrific way to enjoy the sunset. It’s available from 5 to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; and from 4 to 5 p.m. Sundays. Enjoy pasta dishes starting at $7.95; or entrees such as chicken parmigiana ($9.95), veal Milanese ($9.95), and the cornucopia of seafood with pasta fruitti di mare with fresh shrimp, mussels, scallops and clams served on linguini ($13.95). Salad, soup and desserts are also offered. Try the signature Grand Marnier chocolate souffle with fresh raspberries and whipped cream, specially priced at $3.95 for early diners.

Chef Sonny Mergenthaler has enjoyed more than 35 years at Villa Nova. He cooks with quality ingredients and serves classic Italian cuisine. His dishes include excellent milk fed veal, original Italian sauces, and seafood dishes. Portions are large and you’ll find classic Italian favorites like spaghetti carbonara ($15.95); spaghetti al Bolognese ($10.95); and veal parmigiani ($23.95). Try the 14 oz. baseball-cut sirloin served with fresh vegetables, and a choice of a side of spaghetti or roasted rosemary potatoes ($34.95); or the rich gnocchi al verde served in a gorgonzola cream sauce ($12.95); and cappellini al pomodoro e basilica topped with scampi ($11.95). The scallopine castellana with proscuitto and melted mozzarella ($23.95) is another classic dish.

You would not know it by dining there, but Villa Nova has endured its share of disasters and comebacks since it was established in Hollywood in 1923. Its founder Alfredo Di Lisio, who changed his name to Allen Dale, moved the Villa Nova in 1967 from the increasingly seedy Sunset Strip to Newport Beach.

The restaurant, both in Hollywood and Orange County, became a hangout for movie stars during the golden age of Hollywood, including Charlie Chaplin, Bing Crosby, Judy Garland and Marilyn Monroe.

In 1995, the Newport Beach restaurant was destroyed by fire. The remains were bulldozed and a new facility was built. It opened the following year with better views and its original charming ambience.

“We even applied a special finish on the knotty pine [in the dining room] to replicate the look of 25 years of nicotine,” said owner Andy Crean, the restaurant’s owner since 1995. Pictures of the original and current dining room look like mirror images.

This year, Villa Nova celebrates its 25-year anniversary with resident piano man Rich Fauno. The piano bar is a favorite spot among locals to enjoy Fauno’s music. Nightly entertainment in the bar lasts from 8 p.m. to midnight. Fauno performs at 8 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday. Other performers include Ed Waters every Thursday. He sings music from the ‘50s to current hits. Paco performs popular hits and romantic ballads on Fridays. Rick Sherman entertains with a wide variety of hits Saturdays.

Villa Nova’s award-winning wine list received an award from Wine Spectator magazine. The selection includes 1,100 wines, with 9,000 bottles in storage. In almost every nook and cranny wines are stored in the restaurant; the rest are kept in a warehouse. Included in the list are rare French Bordeauxs from the 1940s, California Cabernets from the 1960s and a superb collection of Italian Brunellos and Super Tuscans.

Villa Nova offers private rooms for parties upstairs. There’s a waterfront banquet room with the capacity to accommodate 25 to 125 guests. And there’s a private dining room that seats up to 30 guests. There’s also an upstairs private bar, outdoor patio and access for people with disabilities.

Customers can dock boats at Villa Nova’s slips. Watching boats dock can be part of the entertainment for diners. Call ahead for dock valets on busy nights.

Valet parking is complimentary.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626; or by fax at (714) 966-4679.

20051021ioopu8kn(LA)Villa Nova in Newport Beach is a faux Italian villa.