Cave in to delight at La Cave

IF YOU GO

* WHAT: La Cave

* WHERE: 1695 Irvine Ave. in Costa Mesa

* WHEN: Open for dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; open for dinner 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Bar open from 4:30 p.m. 11 p.m. Mondays; and from 4:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday

* INFO: (949) 646-7944 or www.lacaverestaurant.com

La Cave is a throwback to an era when the Rat Pack ruled Las Vegas, a two-martini lunch was a mid-day treat, women donned bouffant hairstyles and go-go boots, and stylish men dressed in double-breasted sports jackets, polyester pants and the all-important turtle neck.

Much has changed since 1962, but not La Cave. The underground restaurant at 17th Street and Irvine Avenue in Newport Beach still attracts a loyal crowd to dine on incredible grilled steaks, delicate and meaty Alaskan King crab legs and addicting garlic cheese bread.

The restaurant is such a throwback that it has attracted in recent years an entirely new generation of admirers who love its 1960s feel and top-notch entertainment.

The dimly lighted restaurant has kept its original charm since it opened on Valentine’s Day in 1962, in a spot that had been a wine cellar for Hi-Time Wine Cellars.

The cave-like dining room features brick arches and a wood carving of Bacchus displayed behind the lively bar. Kettles converted into lights glow over tables, and co-chefs and brothers Roberto and Luis Orozco grill meats on an open-flame near the entrance.

The only changes made since its original owners Carol and Bill Boyer sold it five years ago to Mike Palitz has been a room addition for more dining space and live entertainment.

Part of the fun of dining at La Cave is watching waitresses wheel out carts of chilled meats and seafood. It’s a visual menu only and you just point to what you want. Guests can choose lean and tender filet mignon, a 7 oz. ($27.95) or 10 oz. cut ($30.95).

The new 24 oz. porterhouse has incredible flavor ($35.95), and the boneless rib eye is fattier and delicious ($28.95). The steaks are good enough to rank La Cave among the top five steakhouses in Southern California, according to a local television station.

Shellfish also is cooked to perfection. Try the Alaskan King Crab that comes split ($33.95), or taste the Australian lobster tail, at 10 to 12 oz. ($48.95).

Considering all entrees come with side dishes, La Cave is a good value. Guests can choose the soup of the day (always clam chowder Fridays and Saturdays); or tossed mixed salad with greens, cucumber, olives and beets; and a choice potatoes or rice, which include a twice baked cheese-stuffed potato with sour cream, chives and parmesan cheese; a regular baked potato; or rice pilaf. Plenty of garlic cheese bread is served too.

There are four desserts to choose from -- an excellent carrot cake, New York-style cheese cake, chocolate mousse cake and the chocolate lovin’ spoon cake, which is really a chocolate pudding cake.

La Cave has a regular roster of entertainers, as well as special guest musicians. To celebrate Halloween, La Cave throws its annual costume party on Saturday.

On Mondays, David Kinwald plays a live tribute to Frank Sinatra from 6 to 9 p.m. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, it’s rock-n-roll karaoke night, and guests even sing with the band from 10:30 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. On Wednesdays, starting at 9:45 p.m., enjoy the sounds from the Todd Oliver Jazz quartet. On Fridays, Ginger Baker Junior performs jazz fusion.

On Saturdays, starting at 10 p.m., Plan Be plays funky, soul and jazz music.

Special musicians appear the last Friday and Saturday of every month. Phil Shane sings popular hits from Neil Diamond, Tom Jones, Elvis, Johnny Cash and more on the last Friday; and local and L.A.-based bands play for Rock La Cave night the last Saturday.

Whether you’re in search of a night on the town, or you want a delicious steak and seafood dinner, you’ve come to the right place. La Cave is always in style.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626; or by fax at (714) 966-4679.

20051028ip1muwkn(LA)Roberto Orozco, chef at La Cave