Pruning for success in the rose garden

“My evil genius Procrastination has whispered me to tarry ‘til a more convenient season.”

Mary Todd Lincoln

“The crown of roses is also a crown of thorns.”

G. K. Chesterton

One of the thornier issues gardeners must deal with each year is when to prune the roses. Timing, as Catharine always tells me, is very important. Pruning is completed in concert with locale and temperature. New growth is stimulated by warmer weather, bringing the promise of new foliage and beautiful flowers. For those of us who live in Laguna, be assured that your roses should be pruned any time from now until the end of February.

The fear of rose pruning, much like the fear of flying, is unnecessary stress. Armed with Felco secateurs (or another pair of sharp hand shears) and goatskin gloves, this annual ritual will transform a crown of thorns into a crown of rose petals. Roses are one of the most forgiving of plants and will endure a beginner’s uncertain cuts. Over time, gardeners develop pruning skills and discover it is difficult to prune a rose incorrectly.

We prune for the health of the rose. Selected pruning shapes the bush into an attractive form and prepares the rose for the blooming that follows quickly. Hybrid teas and floribundas are the most popular of roses and don’t require heavy pruning in Laguna. Keep in mind that about a third of the plant will be trimmed.

The first step is to remove any dead wood. Next, cut out all weak stems and growth that are heading toward the center of the rose. The ideal structure is an open bush, with 5 to 10 canes growing in an outward direction.

Sealing major cuts with pruning paint, nail polish, or white glue can prevent insects and diseases from entering the plant and loss of vital sap. Any cut over half an inch in diameter should be sealed.

Cut the cane above a bud eye (the site where new growth appears) that is pointing upward and outward. The cut should be made a quarter inch above the eye and angled at 45 degrees down and away. The new stem will then grow toward sunlight and fresh air. If you can’t find a bud eye, cut the cane back by about one third.

Climbers require different pruning. Many of them will flower only on second-year laterals. If these canes are removed, there will be no flowers that year. I recommend stripping all of the leaves and pruning back only growth that has extended beyond intended confines. Of course, any damaged or dead canes should be removed.

Follow these instructions, and climbers will provide a good display of flowers each year.

I believe that many of us live out our lives putting off all that can be put off, but only managing to keep up with yesterday. Don’t put off pruning your roses, volunteering for community service or reminding your life partner that he or she is special. Live and love for today. See you next time.

* Steve Kawaratani is married to writer Catharine Cooper and has two cats. He can be reached at 497-2438 or plantman2@mac.com.

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