Greek food pros open new Costa Mesa eatery

Just when you thought sushi restaurants were the “it” dining spots in Eastside Costa Mesa, a Greek cafe opens on East 17th Street to dazzle locals. It’s only been a few months since the casual Greek Town Grill served its first customer, and already its rich and irresistible moussaka, gyros filled with layers of thinly sliced marinated lamb, and hearty salads with charbroiled meats are the talk of the town.

Owner Jim Marutsos, 35, is the son of Greek immigrants and no stranger to running Greek culinary hotspots. With his mother, Penny, he also owns the festive and Aegean Cafe on Coast Highway in Laguna Beach. Aegean is a popular special-occasion restaurant, where you can get a taste the good life of a Greek, complete with traditional cuisine, live music, dancing waiters and even belly dancers.

When it came time to open a second restaurant, Marutsos stripped away the bells and whistles that make Aegean a lively destination spot and focused instead on the delicious foods of Greece, served in an attractive and accessible strip mall.

Greek Town Grill is a family affair. Jim’s wife, Sheila, helped design the contemporary and inviting decor. She chose modern and clean accents -- blue and sea-foam green glass tiles, faux finishes, custom dark-stained tables, and flattering lighting. An iPod sound system shuffles Greek music, flat screen TVs add visual hipness, and a charming display of Marutsos family photos fill the back wall. There’s also an enclosed patio area for outdoor dining.

As long as you eat at Greek Town, you’re making healthy choices. Most of the foods are organic, free-range meats; and family recipes are made from scratch. Behind the counter, you can watch vertical circulating gyro rotisseries, where marinated meats are slowly charbroiled using an old Greek technique to seal the juices in.

In no time, the meats will be transported into favorite dishes -- pork or chicken souvlakia (Greek for kebab), skewers of pork or chicken breast marinated in herbs and spices served with rice pilaf and salad ($8.75 or $8.95); and classic gyro of seasoned beef, topped with tangy yogurt based tzatziki, tomato, red onion, on warm pita ($5.45).

The salad selections make great entree choices. Try the Greek or chopped salad. The Greek salad, a staple of Greek dining, is dressed with a secret recipe handed down by Jim’s uncle, John Zaharopoulos. The 40-year-old recipe is based on the essence of Greece flavors: tomatoes with just the right blend of oregano, extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper.

The chopped salad features a chicken breast and a blend of fresh and roasted vegetables: chicken breast, Roma tomatoes, cucumbers, roasted eggplant, bell peppers, arugula and iceberg lettuce, fresh parmesan and balsamic dressing ($9.95). The pear and gorgonzola is a refreshing choice with mixed greens, sweet candied walnuts, and balsamic dressing ($8.25).

Greek meals aren’t complete without a few appetizers. And Greek Town Grill offers eight tasty selections. Try the great hand-rolled dolmades, tiny pillows of rice, ground sirloin, fresh herbs wrapped in marinated grape leaves and topped with a rich egg and lemon sauce ($4.95); the fresh whipped hummus, served with warm pita ($4.95); or crispy spanakopita, a baked phyllo appetizer filled with spinach, feta, and herbs ($4.95).

Delicious desserts include the sweet pastry baklava, yogurt with honey and nuts, and cheesecake ($2.95 to $3.50). Greek Town Grill also offers a nice selection Greek wines by the glass, beers, and boutique sodas.

Greek Town is kid-friendly too. Choices for children include a burger, chicken fingers, and skewers of beef, chicken or pork served with French fries, rice or salad ($5.95).

Greek Town Grill is the kind of place you can stop by for a quick bite, a leisurely meal, or take-out meals. It offers good food without the production elements of its sister restaurant in Laguna Beach. It suits the casual vibe of East 17th Street well.

IF YOU GO

* WHAT: Greek Town Grill

* WHERE: 297 East 17th St. in Costa Mesa

* WHEN: Open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday

* INFO: (949) 515-2788 or www.greektowngrill.com

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at greerwylder@yahoo.com; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626; or by fax at (714) 966-4679.

20060113it09wincMARK DUSTIN / DAILY PILOT(LA)Moussaka is ground sirloin, eggplant, potato, herbs, spices and bechamel baked and topped with marinara and cheese.