Cold weather management

“The weather is like the government, always in the wrong.”

--Jerome K. Jerome

It was cold and drizzling unexpectedly when we arrived at our destination. The weatherman had predicted clear conditions, but the starless, leaden skies promised more than a little rain, and the temperature was falling with each passing moment. Fortunately, we made our way indoors before the raindrops could soak us.

We face a myriad of challenges, as rain and cold are a distinct possibility over the next two months. Good judgment on tree selection and pruning really shows up during and after major winter storms. In certain Laguna climes, there is the possibility of frost damage to ornamentals and fruit trees. Unanticipated wet and cold weather conditions may damage strawberries, early tomatoes and basil.

Cold temperatures damage or destroy certain plant tissues by causing the water inside the plant to crystallize and damage the cell walls. Many of our tropical and subtropical plants can suffer cold damage once temperatures drop below 40 degrees. Maceration of the plant tissue causes the protoplasm inside the cells to burst out, causing the mushy look of soft tissue plants and the burnt, limp feel of leaves.

Many gardeners believe that they can keep plants warm by wrapping them up, just as we wear heavier clothing during cold weather. This, however, does not hold true, because plants have no body warmth. Within a few hours they will be just as cold as if they had no protection.

You should know what is the lowest temperature your plants can tolerate. Plants that are cold-sensitive cannot be expected to survive outdoors with any amount of covering during freezing conditions. Only artificial heat indoors will sustain them over the winter.

What can you do if your sensitive plants are too large to move into the garage? If the plants are movable, try temporarily relocating them under the eaves of your house. This location is warmer and less exposed to the elements.

You may reduce the loss of heat by completely covering plants with cloth tarps or burlaps. The corners are then pegged into the ground. If this is undertaken at sundown, the radiant heat of the soil will keep space around the plants warmer than the outside air temperature. Remember, it is almost useless to just drape plants with clothing, newspapers and tarps.

As last resorts, portable heaters and fans can keep temperatures from falling too low around sensitive plantings. This isn’t very practical when it is raining, because of the dangers of mixing water and electricity. During periods of clear, cold weather, sprinkling plants lightly with water will often save them. If the temperature is below freezing, however, sprinkling will do more harm than good.

Perhaps the best solution is to know what zone you live in (the Sunset Book is an excellent guide) and how low temperatures might drop. Armed with this information, you can plant hardy perennials for your locale. And if you follow the Plant Man’s advice, you won’t rush the planting of cold-sensitive flowers and vegetables until the end of winter.

Following dinner, Catharine and I basked in the warmth and joy of our company; even rain and cold air couldn’t dampen our spirits. I happened to glance at the snow bush on our deck; it was clearly unhappy with the current air temperature. A fleeting notion crossed my mind that I should cover it with my jacket. The thought quickly turned to laughter -- it would be better to move it to Loreto. See you next time.

* Steve Kawaratani is married to local writer Catharine Cooper and has two cats. He can be reached at 497-2438 or plantman2@mac.com.

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