Cheese platters and cheering chatter

On a beautiful spring evening, with the sky tinted watermelon and papaya from the setting sun and the light falling softly on the patio of the Sundried Tomato Café, we sipped our cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and nibbled on a selection of Spanish cheeses and cured meats.

We were at a monthly cheese and wine dinner mingling with a group of foodies from the increasingly sophisticated O.C. and eagerly anticipating the meal to follow. We chatted with the FitzGeralds, Mary and Dee, who were here for the sixth time.

In his words: “This is a unique event because you often see wine and cheese pairings, or wine and food pairings, but never all three together.” They have watched it grow from just 16 people to tonight’s sell-out of 34.

The fortuitous alliance between two major figures on the Laguna Beach culinary scene ? Marc Jacobs, the creative executive chef at the Sundried Tomato Café and Nancy Milby, director of the Culinary Institute ? is responsible for this event. This was the 10th installation in the series and our first time in attendance.

These dinners feature wine, cheese and cuisine from a different country or region each time. Marc creates the dinner and provides California wines when appropriate. Nancy furnishes the wine as well as all the cheeses. These come from her wine store and cheese shop in the canyon. Tonight, we are taking a virtual tour of Spain.

James Drakeford, the “cheesemeister” from the shop, selects and presents the cheeses for each event. While you enjoy your bubbly, James gives you information about the qualities and style of the cheeses, as you taste them.

Some of these cheeses will reappear in some form in the dinner. They ranged from the more familiar nutty Manchego and the blue Cabrales to the creamy Drunken Goat and buttery sharp Mahon from Minorca. We also sampled Lomo (cured pork) and Serrano ham, which is like a Spanish version of proscuitto.

Dinner is announced and we move inside to be seated by our host at the long tables. Marc, Nancy and James each spoke briefly about the food, wines and cheese that we were about to enjoy, adding another dimension to our appreciation of the experience.

We began with a deeply flavored white-bean soup with leeks and Serrano ham, topped with a crostini of melted Morbier cheese. Marc acknowledged his little mistake, as Morbier is a French cheese. He explained that the first time he tasted this cheese, it was a gift from someone returning from Spain, so he always thought it was a Spanish cheese. No one minded a bit.

The salty, smoky flavor of the ham was balanced by the creamy white beans, while the crispy crostini added a final fillip. This course was paired with a crisp Sauvignon blanc-like white wine with a marvelously fruity aroma: Prius de Morana Verdejo 2004, Rueda. It was the first example of how the perfectly chosen wines enhanced the flavors of each dish.

The second course, an array of tapas, was served family style. Abundantly laden platters arrived, filled with grilled artichokes stuffed with Garrotxa cheese, as well as assorted meats, including an unusual duck chorizo, excellent olives and grilled, steamed mussels that were delicately sweet and perfumed with herbs.

As we were happily munching away, another treat arrived, much to everyone’s delight ? a grown-up grilled cheese sandwich filled with oven-roasted tomatoes and Mahon cheese. A moan of delight went up all along the table. Accompanying this tasty assortment was a light, dry rosé: Las Rocas de San Alejandro Rosado 2004, Calatayud.

The entrée was a carnivore’s delight ? a humongous grilled bone-in rib-eye steak with melted Cabrales blue cheese. It was a great piece of meat, well marbled and well flavored. The cheese was almost like a creamy, salty sauce. The idea of cheese on a good steak ? a current fad ? always seemed a bit baroque, but it actually works quite well.

Rounding out the plate were yummy garlic mashed potatoes (not too garlicky, not too creamy) and asparagus spears. The wine served was a Spanish red Dominio de la Peseta Crianza 2001, Alicante, which stood up well to the beef.

Fortunately, dessert was light; a poached pear baked in caramel sauce served with an aged Spanish cheese. The sweetness of the pear was beautifully balanced by the delicate saltiness of the cheese. With it we had an unusual sherry, Bodegas Dios Baco Pedro Ximinez, Jerez, almost syrupy in texture with an intense flavor and aroma of raisins, more like a liqueur than a sherry.

The entire happening was a foodie Nirvana. There is a certain sameness to restaurant menus these days, even though the quality of the food may be high. Little ethnic restaurants are usually our favorite places to eat because they provide interesting new tastes and the adventure of encountering a new culture. This evening reminded us of that experience, an original and creative dining concept that displayed the passion and talent of Marc Jacobs and Nancy Milby.

Cheese and wine dinners take place on the second Monday of each month at the Sundried Tomato Café in Laguna Beach. In the summer months, they will be held at their San Juan Capistrano location. Due to the growing popularity of these events, book as early as you can. Call (949) 494-3312 for reservations. The price is $75, including wine.

All the above-mentioned wines and cheeses, plus many others, are available at the Culinary Institute’s wine and cheese shop, located just west of the Sawdust Festival grounds at 845 Laguna Canyon. Phone: (949) 494-4006.