RESTAURANT REVIEW:

Sushi Imari is popular at lunch. There are seven tables and 15 seats at the Sushi bar, so if you aren’t there by 11:30, you are probably going to be waiting for a bit. The staff is as accommodating as possible given the tight quarters, and most of the diners realize others are waiting and don’t dally over their meal.

The meal for us usually starts with edamame (soybeans) and miso soup. The restaurant usually has appealing lunchtime specials. This time, fire rolls ($7.95) and deep fried California roll ($4.75) came to the table. The spiciness of the fire roll wasn’t too overbearing and actually could have been a bit hotter. The deep fried California roll had an interesting texture.

The lunch combination is what is always ordered after the two dishes. The combination is either one, two of three items from a menu of 14. Prices range from $5.95 to $9.50 at lunch and $6.95 to $10.50 at dinner.

I chose chicken teriyaki, gyoza and sashimi, which consists of two pieces of tuna and salmon. Andre is sketchy on the meat here, though I have never had a problem with any of the teriyaki or ribs I have ever ordered. He selected tempura, which is one shrimp and four pieces of mixed vegetables, California rolls and spicy tuna.

The combination comes with lettuce that has a dressing on it, but is largely ignored as is a fistful of white rice.

In the evening, the dinner combination would be fine, but I would recommend bypassing that and ordering more sushi, especially some of the 29 signature rolls.

This works perfectly with groups of four or more, giving more opportunities to sample more of the imaginative dishes.

The staples of sushi are available and are very good. But the more adventurous should try some of the more colorful selections, both in name and presentation. “Kiss my bass” is a California roll with striped bass, green onion and ponzu sauce, a citrus-based sauce with rice vinegar. “Judy roll” is marinated beef and onion with mozzarella cheese and salsa. “The badda bing” is one of my favorites. It is calamari tempura, crab, avocado and sprout.

The restaurant also has a frequent sushi special, which rewards diners with 50% off pieces from a special menu. There are 15 selections that don’t include the signature rolls — but salmon, scallop, squid and smelt egg are some of the choices. If you buy two at lunch, you get half off your next orders. Dinner requires three be bought before the discount.

Not a sake drinker, but my dining partner assures me Sushi Imari’s is acceptable but not outstanding. I opt for Asahi or Sapporo beer whenever the mood for an alcoholic accompaniment hits me. Sushi Imari also serves wine.

My only pet peeve with the place is the chopsticks. I loathe cheap, disposable wooden chopsticks, the type that you have to break apart and rub together to rid them of splinters.

Supply bamboo or plastic chopsticks. It would make a good meal that much better. I will continue to bring my own chopsticks to Sushi Imari but will look forward to the day when I can leave them at home.

SUSHI IMARI

WHERE: 375 Bristol St., Costa Mesa

CUISINE: Japanese and sushi

DRESS: Casual

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes, but no children’s menu

PHONE: (714) 641-5654

RATING: ****