RESTAURANT REVIEW:Bluewater Grill passes the parent test

This dinner was going to one of the most enjoyable, but also one of the most nerve-wracking. It was a dinner with the most discriminating diners I know — my parents.

They both eat out frequently and their contempt of chain restaurants is legendary. Suggest a national restaurant to my mother and her nose scrunches up like she just smelled day-old fish.

They used to live in Pasadena and had their favorite places to eat, which were older, established restaurants that served unique dishes.

So I know their tastes well, but being the rebellious son I couldn’t help but try and trick them just a little bit.

The Bluewater Grill has four locations — Redondo Beach, Tustin, Costa Mesa and Newport Beach. Technically qualifying as a chain restaurant, but I figured they wouldn’t be any wiser.

The Newport Beach location is on Lido Park and while more scenic, a little more effort is needed to get to the somewhat remote location. We went to the Costa Mesa location, which has ample parking and is near South Coast Plaza.

The American seafood served is billed as some of the freshest in Southern California, and if anyone was going to test that claim, it would be my parents.

The menu was put right to the test as my mother ordered catfish and my father chose the sea bass. I ordered mahi-mahi.

The mesquite grilled fish can be prepared four additional ways: bronzed, blackened, teriyaki or Cajun. My mother wanted hers just grilled, my father blackened his and I had mine Cajun.

Before we got our entrees, my father had a Caesar salad and I spied lobster bisque — one of my favorite soups — and asked for a cup.

I wish I had gotten a bowl. It is some of the best bisque I have ever had. It wasn’t too creamy and the spices used were tangy, but not overpowering.

The restaurant pledges that all its soups, sauces and dressings are made from scratch on a daily basis and that was evident with the bisque and the Caesar’s salad that was met with approval by my father, who used to make them by scratch.

When the fish came, I purposely waited to take a bite, first looking at my parents to see what their first reaction would be.

They both paused after the first forkful and then looked up, their eyebrows rising a tad. They were impressed. The food had passed the test.

My mahi-mahi was quite good and I am glad I got it done Cajun-style, though I had to adjust to the spice, which was burning my lips but didn’t take away from the flavor of the fish.

This is a place I could eat frequently at and find something new every time. There were several entrees I saw that I would have liked to try and will have to wait for another day.

I nearly ordered the San Francisco Cioppino, a personal favorite. The combination of crab, scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels and other fish blended with a spicy marina sauce is something I always long to eat.

Another dish that caught my eye was the Barramundi sea bass that is crusted with Macadamia nuts and coconut, with tropical fruit sauce.

I was kicking myself when I saw the seared Canadian scallops, cooked with grilled asparagus in a citrus tarragon reduction.

The wine offered by the restaurant has some interesting selections. There are 23 choices by the glass, ranging from $5.25 to $11.50. The bottles range from $21.50 to $76, which I thought were a bit overpriced. The Castle Rock, Pinot Noir for $8.50 is a strong wine and reasonably priced.

The comfortable setting and friendly waiter were acceptable. The crowd noise was minimal and I was able to catch up with my parents. I never did tell them they had just eaten at a chain restaurant. Better not to spoil the illusion.

Bluewater Grill

Address: 630 Lido Park Drive, Newport Beach and 1621 W. Sunflower Ave. #D-50, Costa Mesa

Phone: Newport Beach: (949) 675- 3474; Costa Mesa: (714) 546-3474

Cuisine: Seafood

Specialty dish: Any fresh fish selection

Alcohol served: Full bar, including beer and wine by the glass

Dress: casual

Family friendly: Yes, but no children’s menu

Rating: **** (out of 5)