RESTAURANT REVIEW:Go dizzy with decisions at Jerry’s Famous Deli

Most New York-style delicatessens are much like the residents of that city — they appear extremely intimidating, but actually have a warm and comforting aura about them.

Jerry’s Famous Deli has taken that dining philosophy and employed most of it here, but added a bit of a California touch.

The intimidation is partially there, but picks its spots. In a New York deli, a man in his 60s guards the entrance, abruptly asking how many and then almost running to seat you. At Jerry’s, a young, 20-something hostess warmly greets everyone.

Whereas the slogan at Katz’s or Carnegie’s Deli in New York might be “Shut up, sit down, start eating,” Jerry’s is a bit more inviting with “Where food and people mix.”

But Jerry’s is definitely no pushover. Open the menu and you will get dizzy with all the options. There are more than 600 items on the menu and a lifetime could be spent eating different meals.

The restaurant’s signature dish is the pastrami sandwich. Lean pastrami piled high on rye bread is a deli institution and it is definitely this deli’s specialty. The meat is spicy and lean, and I have never bit into a piece of fat in any of the countless sandwiches I have ordered.

Pastrami is also utilized in one of the variations of the Reuben, which is one of my favorites. Usually served with corned beef, the pastrami tends to meld better with the Thousand Island dressing and sauerkraut.

Any sandwich ordered should be a half and not a whole. The half sandwich is plenty of food and also allows for sampling of other items on the menu.

While the whole sandwich is large, the triple deckers are sandwiches on steroids. Piled high with meat — corned beef, pastrami, you name it — they are not for the timid.

The deli’s other specialty is matzo ball soup. This soup is not my preferred choice, but my friend, whose mother raised him on it, tells me it’s authentic.

There are many foods influenced by Jewish culture that are more exciting than dumpling soup in broth. One of mine is the bagel and lox spread, another is kreplach, which is similar to ravioli.

Other cultures are represented on this menu. There is a section devoted to Mexican food, including fajitas, tacos and quesadillas.

Stick with the deli food. The sandwiches alone will keep a diner busy for a month. Break away from the safety of pastrami and turkey and try a tongue sandwich or chopped chicken liver.

If you become a regular at Jerry’s, and it is hard not to, venture over to the entrees and fill up on Hungarian Goulash or Chicken Breast Schnitzel.

Dessert is a button-busting adventure, and the fresh pies and cakes should be sampled. There are also floats, shakes, smoothies and a banana split.

Hunger may storm Jerry’s Famous Deli, but it always leaves a beaten foe.

JERRY’S FAMOUS DELI

Address: 3210 Park Center Drive, Costa Mesa.

Phone: (714) 662-3354

Cuisine: Delicatessen

Specialty dish: Pastrami sandwich

Alcohol served: Full bar

Dress: Casual

Family friendly: No children’s menu but plenty of food kids will enjoy.

Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard and American Express

Reger Rating: ***