IN THE PIPELINE:Old school ice shop stays cool

I received a lot of positive feedback in regards to last week’s piece on the efforts underway to get rid of Dog Beach.

I have since heard from a City Council member insisting that Dog Beach is “not in play.” That’s good news.

On another topic, it is well below freezing and I’m starting to shiver. Ice is piled over my head and my breath is coming out in thick, cold puffs. Just an average day in Huntington Beach, right? It is if you’re standing in the freezer at Brewster’s Ice on 6th Street, just off Main, where I had the pleasure of visiting one recent, balmy morning.

Fourth of July is one of the busiest times of the year here at one of the oldest businesses in town (it’s actually the oldest owned by the original proprietors), but Mike Costello still took some time to talk to me in between hauling blocks of ice off a delivery truck. He’s worked here for 22 years, and he’s married to Ellen Brewster whose dad started this cool operation back in 1945.

In this hi-tech, gadget-obsessed era, Brewster’s Ice may be the most refreshingly low-tech spot in California. The funky old blue and white rectangular building that houses it began life as an Army-issue meat locker down on the beach during World War II (it stored the food that was used to feed soldiers at the gun encampments). After the Brewsters took it over in the mid-40s, the building was moved to its current location and today, it holds a small office, lots of ice, and that’s about it.

Mike explains that twice a week, the ice truck arrives with big blocks of freshly cut ice, but for Fourth of July week it might be twice that. Brewster’s Ice has evolved through the eras as best it can, and Mike’s fully aware that many young people today are oblivious to the fact that years ago, an “Ice Man” would deliver blocks of the frozen stuff to both families and businesses.

That would have been Virgil Brewster, who carved a reputation for himself as one of the hardest working local merchants the city has ever known. He’d lug 100-pound blocks of ice on his back all through town, looking at the cardboard hexagonal measuring signs folks would post in their windows.

The arrows might point at 20, 50 or 100 pounds, which determined how much ice they’d want that day. He’d lug ice over to the old Golden Bear, the Surf Theater, and most restaurants. If you wanted ice, you’d call Brewster’s, plain and simple. Virgil passed away 12 or so years ago, but his wife Lucille still lives in town. She’s 97 years old, and if you come by Brewster’s late Tuesday and Thursday mornings and Mike’s not there, it’s with good reason: that’s when he takes Lucille bowling (and she can still break 100).

As I chat with Mike, Alice Gustafson arrives for her ice. Alice runs the wonderful Alice’s in the Park and her presence adds an interesting layer of history to Brewster’s Ice. You realize how entwined some of our city’s most reliable, precious businesses are with each other. A visit to Brewster’s Ice also provides a peek at the history of Huntington Beach. You see, back when Virgil and Lucille ran the place, they’d also spend time in a cozy 1920s bungalow hidden among the thick trees just behind the icehouse. The cottage is still tucked back there, and Mike sometimes spends time inside, chilling when things get quiet.

As for the product, you might think you know ice, but until you hear it explained, believe me — you don’t know ice. I learn about all the basic grinds — “fine crushed,” which is good for ice cream and just what you want for margaritas.

Then there’s the “business crush” grind, still used by a few businesses for fountain drinks.

“Heavy crush” grind is used for cooling in ice chests and last but not least, the “party ice” grind is your basic cubed ice for parties (which used to be mechanically sawed until the machinery became too expensive. Now, the ice is put into tumblers to cube it.

There’s dry ice (most popular at Halloween) and did you know that if you put dry ice in a chest topped with 3 inches of crushed on top it makes a “refrigerator” that will last for about 10 days?

You must also know that not all ice is created equal. Mike tells me that white ice is not good — it means that there’s too much air in the ice and thus it will melt faster. You want to always look for clear ice, which is all you’ll ever find at Brewster’s.

Brewster’s Ice is one of those places that’s a snapshot of the past, recalling days of simpler industry, a time when streetcar conductors, door-to-door salesmen and yes, icemen, were all part of neighborhoods.

Virgil Brewster may be gone, but thankfully, his family is still moving blocks of ice here in Huntington Beach (and even better, his Mrs. is still bowling).

Let’s raise a nice cold glass to Brewster’s Ice.

is the author of nine books, including “Images of America,” “Huntington Beach” and his latest, “Led Zeppelin Crashed Here, The Rock and Roll Landmarks of North America.” Write him at chris@chrisepting.com.