RESTAURANT REVIEW:

We don’t have enough institutions in this country. We seem content, almost satisfied, to tear down landmarks, especially restaurants.

One I hope never sees the wrecking ball is Captain Jack’s. The Sunset Beach establishment was opened by local surfing legend Jack Haley and is known for its crab legs.

Haley opened the restaurant in 1965 and started serving steak and seafood to the locals. Though minor additions have been made to the menu over the years, steak and seafood still dominate the fare. Haley’s son, Tim, now runs the placeand more than locals frequent it.

What makes this restaurant so good are tenets I think are essential for any place that serves food.

The first is good service. Because I live nearby, I stop in and have a drink occasionally, and the bartender always knows my name. I thought this was because I was a local, but it seems all of the staff makes a point of remembering people who are frequent visitors.

Even if it is your first time at Captain Jack’s, one nice touch is the hostess calling you by your name when she seats you. The wait staff will do the same. They work in teams and diners never feel neglected.

The second tenet is good food. The star has always been the Alaskan king crab legs and for good reason. They are 20 ounces of steamed heaven, with four to six legs cracked at both ends, served with melted butter and lemon for around $40. The restaurant serves thousands of pounds of crab legs every month and it is definitely the trademark dish.

This, however, is not the only entree worth having. The meats are outstanding and between the filet mignon and prime rib it is always a tough choice. But I would give the nod to the latter. New York steak is also offered, but I haven’t ever been a big fan of that cut.

Order the signature dish; you can get it in combination with practically anything. The traditional steak and crab legs includes a 12-ounce sirloin, but a better way to go is the seafood combination. It’s a plate piled with crab, scallops, shrimp and fish — usually swordfish. When the chef is feeling whimsical he will substitute ahi.

The four items are worth the $39.95 price tag and, as with the other entrees come with salad, rice pilaf, and pumpernickel and sourdough bread.

The other fish on the menu is also of good quality, though a bit overpriced. I love mahi mahi, and they do give you 13 ounces of it, but I still think $25.95 is a bit much to pay. Same with the salmon, which is the same amount and price. If you want it Cajun style, that’s another $1.50.

The Hawaiian ahi, though, is worth the money. The grilled fish is well prepared and comes with pineapple and macadamia nuts.

The appetizers are worth dabbling in as well. I like the shrimp cocktail, which comes with jumbo shrimp and is almost a meal in itself. Also the steamed mussels and clams are good to share with a group.

With its dark lighting and quiet ambience, this is the perfect date place for couples. If you are going with a date and the weather is nice enough, take a gondola ride that starts in Peter’s Landing anddrops you off right at a dock in front of the restaurant.

Make a reservation and ask for a table by the harbor. It is expensive, but if you want a guaranteed perfect evening of food and service, this is a place you shouldn’t miss.

CAPTAIN JACK’S

Address: 16812 Pacific Coast Highway, Sunset Beach

Phone: (562) 592-2514

Cuisine: Seafood

Specialty dish: Alaskan king crab legs

Alcohol served: Yes, full bar with extensive wine list

Dress: beach casual

Family friendly: no

Credit cards accepted: MasterCard and Visa

Rating: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews dining for the Independent.