RESTAURANT REVIEW:

It was time for some adventure for my palette. I was stuck in a rut and not sure how to get out of it. My dining as of late was the usual haunts that are reliable and adequate, but also dreadfully predictable.

While most times I would welcome that, a change was necessary. Fortunately, my friend Tania wanted to go to a place she visits regularly, but it would be new to me.

Two of the many reasons Tania likes Persian food are the abundance of tastes and their uniqueness. My taste buds are fairly unaccustomed to Persian food, so I was all too eager to try it.

We went to one of the best in the area, Darya, across from South Coast Plaza. The restaurant has been in the South Coast Village Plaza since 1986.

What they have provided is a mix of a family-owned, ethnic restaurant into a large, elegant facility. The main dining room is to the left of the entrance and is decorated in rich, colorful tones that give the area the feel of expansiveness. Large, cream-colored marble columns and exotic-looking chandeliers grace the room, and the tables are adorned with white table cloths.

The food is equally impressive.

The unique flavors of Persian food are found immediately in the appetizers. One of the most popular is the borani. This is made with eggplant, yogurt, onions, garlic and herbs and melds together perfectly. Another appetizer I would recommend would be the panir sabzi. It is a plate of imported feta cheese, walnuts and herbs that include mint, basil and tarragon. It is a petite appetizer with an incredibly powerful punch of flavor.

If you like dolemeh, which I have never really cared for, this is another can’t miss appetizer. The cooked grape leaves are stuffed with ground beef, rice, tarragon, split peas, green onions, basil, parsley and fresh herbs, and they are almost a meal in themselves.

Another item that can’t be passed up is the ash reshteh soup. The choice with some of the dinners is salad or soup, and I don’t care if there is a heat wave outside, opt for the soup. It is one of the most unique dishes I have ever had. If your dinner doesn’t come with it, make sure you order it. It is well worth the $8.95.

The cream base is filled with mint, caramelized onion, lentil, pinto beans, noodles and spinach. The mint is so crisp it gives the soup an incredible taste.

For me, not having a lot of experience with Persian food, the combination plates were a great choice. Instead of lamenting over chicken, lamb or shrimp, I was able to get all three on a plate and sample each.

There are 10 different combination plates all incorporating lamb, filet mignon, whitefish, scallops, shrimp or chicken. The chicken was marinated in lemon juice, onion powder and salt and pepper. It was so moist I didn’t need a knife to cut it. Instead, I was able to use my fork to break off pieces of the large cubes of white meat.

The lamb was not marinated and didn’t need to be. It was perfect the way it was charbroiled. The shrimp was firm.

The filet mignon Tania had was good, but I would rather stick to lamb if you are looking for red meat. It has more taste to it.

One item I definitely want to come back and try is the white fish or Atlantic salmon. Both dishes are served Friday through Sunday, and are marinated and charbroiled.

Darya’s has been a favorite of the Persian community for years, but other adventurous diners have discovered it as well. I am glad my friend introduced me to the place.

I can’t wait to share it with someone else.

JOHN REGER is the Pilot’s restaurant critic. His reviews run Thursdays.