IN THE PIPELINE:

Throughout my career in the advertising industry, I’ve had more than a passing relationship with supermarkets. Back in the late 1990s, I created the broadcast and print campaigns for Whole Foods Market (the company’s first introduction into the marketplace after it transformed from “Mrs. Gooch’s”).

For several years after that, I wrote and directed commercials for Ralph’s (including its Fresh Fare stores) and several other markets around the country. I’ll never forget one day sitting in an Arizona market, grilling the manager, searching for that one nugget of info that would result in a better commercial.

The man calmly told what he felt made for better advertising, and better supermarkets — and I never forgot it. “Love of product,” he said. “A love of product is essential before you can celebrate what makes a supermarket special.”

I bring all of this up in light of a grand opening that took place with much fanfare last week at 16672 Beach Blvd., where the new Fresh & Easy market is located. Brought over here by giant European retailer Tesco, I was anxious to see what the fuss was all about, and after my visit I can safely report, these folks understand the “Love of Product” formula.

The markets have been making quite a bit of news as they are unveiled throughout Southern California, due in part to the successful overseas reputation that Tesco has established. (Tesco is the largest British retailer by both global sales and domestic market share, and is the world’s third-largest retailer, behind Wal-Mart of the United States and Carrefour of France.)

One reading of the mission statement on the Fresh & Easy website and you get a sense of what the company is bringing to these shores — and why people are excited:

“People want fresh and healthy food choices. People want things to be easy. So we’re making our stores that way. How? By recruiting friendly people and offering high-quality food at prices you can’t believe. We also think people might like some inspiration, so we’re creating easy-to-prepare meals and sharing Fresh & Easy Ideas that make busy lives easier. Because we’re a good neighbor who cares about the environment, we’re including energy-efficient equipment in our stores and operations. And since we’re a neighborhood market, we recruit from the local area, reduce travel time, and encourage neighborhood shopping.”

Sounds good, but do they live up to it? I went to the store a day after the opening with a discerning panel of critics: my wife (who somehow manages to cook something interesting for dinner every single night); our kids (who enjoy eating said dinners each evening); my mother (perhaps the greatest cook on the planet) and a good friend, Sally Struthers. After all, celebrities are ultra-discerning, used to the best of everything, right? So why not put the place to the full test?

Upon first entering Fresh & Easy, it’s easy to see what the buzz is about. It’s super clean and open, airy and inviting. The floors are smooth, polished concrete and the branded color green is everywhere. It’s not just a design choice, though; it’s a philosophy, as the messaging throughout the store supports. This is a place that is beyond enviro-friendly — it’s flat out passionate. Selection-wise, what sets the store apart from say a Trader Joe’s is the fact that it carries a broader selection of mass-market items. But for me, the quality won out over the quantity. The meat, fish and produce were actually fun to look at.

Fresh & Easy-branded products are packaged simply and efficiently, with plenty of organic, feel-good foods for tastes both exotic and basic.

The experts with me loved it across the board. My wife, mom and Sally all raved about the quality of the meats, fish and poultry, as well as the wide aisles and neat, clutter-free environment. You check out yourself using a price scanner (they’ll help if you need), which gives Fresh & Easy a bit of a co-op feel, adding to the “let’s-work-together-to-help- protect-the-world” mood. As well, they even have good, inexpensive wine a la the Two Buck Chuck found at Trader Joe’s. The staff seemed very helpful and plugged in to the concept, which plays a big part in the store experience (and the kids loved the free samples). My wife and mom will definitely be returning (as will I) and Sally is anxiously awaiting the Hollywood store opening (near her house). So green thumbs up all around on Fresh & Easy. Welcome to the neighborhood, it’s a pleasure to have you here.

Review of the market? Post it In The Pipeline, www.hbindependent.com/ columns.

In The Pipeline follow up: The rock ’n’ roll band I wrote about last summer from the Seattle area, The Lonely H, will perform Sunday night at The Blue Café, 17208 Pacific Coast Hwy., Huntington Beach. It’s just $5 (21+) to get in.

CHRIS EPTING is the author of nine books including his latest, “Led Zeppelin Crashed Here, The Rock and Roll Landmarks of North America.” He also hosts “The Pop Culture Road Trip” radio show on webtalkradio.net. You can write him at chris@chrisepting.com.