Restaurant Review:

It was a sad day in my life when Brooklyn Pizza closed. The little pizzeria had captured a place on my dining roster. The pizza was a very good representation of New York-style pizza, and the limited Italian dishes they served were acceptable.

The space was vacant for what seemed like years. By October, Baci di Roma was up and running, and slowly a buzz started about this curious little Italian place. It was upscale, my neighbors told me, and the food was fantastic. I was puzzled why a nice restaurant would pick the location it did, in a shopping mall that has a Ralph’s and a Longs Drugs.

Taste the food, and you won’t care where it is located. The restaurant has improved the clientele of the mall’s occupants, and its corner location is far enough away from runaway shopping carts.

The dining room has been remodeled and is much bigger and more nicely decorated. The one side has a vaulted ceiling and sponged dark mustard paint on the walls. There are pictures on both sides, giving the space an intimate feel, especially with the soft lighting. The other side is much more bright and casual. The kitchen is there and a television is up on the wall.

The food complements either side. It is a mixture of traditional Italian cooking and innovative entrees.

I gnawed on warm, French bread dipped in olive oil and vinegar, looking over at the appetizers. Mixed with the bruschetta and calamari fritti were a couple that caught my eye.

Carpaccio de Manzo is a thinly sliced filet mignon with arugala, capers, Parmesan, lemon and extra virgin olive oil. I liked the ingredients, but wanted something a little lighter and found it with the Baci della Casa.

This is a simple roasted garlic bulb on a plate adorned with brie cheese and credit-card-size pieces of toasted French bread. The garlic falls away from the skin and when put on the bread and covered with the cheese, makes for an incredible start of a meal.

My salad was split with my guest and was mixed greens with onions, tomatoes, sliced black olives, feta cheese and a balsamic vinaigrette. It was a good size, and sharing it was perfect.

Another conundrum appeared when I had to choose my entrée. I had heard the veal was excellent and was definitely tempted, but another dish won me over.

The penne arrabiata is a nice mix of spicy marinara blended with penne pasta, garlic, basil and Italian sausage. The extra garlic I had leftover from the appetizer only added to its flavor.

My guest had the veggie lasagna, and it was a perfect mix of eggplant, spinach and mushrooms with ricotta. The dish was extremely light, and the pink sauce used was a great alternative to the usually heavy red sauce.

The menu is varied, and on subsequent trips I am certain I will find new treasures. The seafood features salmon, swordfish, halibut and three risotto dishes.

The chicken dishes I found interesting, especially the pollo involtini, which is a chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto, spinach and provolone cheese and topped with a creamy mushroom sauce.

Again there are enough traditional dishes, such as fettuccine alfredo and veal marsala, but the creativity put into some of the other dishes on the menu will keep people coming back.

There are specialty pizzas as well. While I have nothing against margherita or scampi pizza, I will choose to keep my memories of the old pizzeria in a sense of distorted loyalty.

Besides, the rest of the menu should keep me busy for quite some time.

Address: 5205 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach

Phone: (714) 840-1122

Cuisine: Italian

Specialty dish: Any of the five veal dishes

Alcohol served: beer and wine

Dress: Casual

Family friendly: yes

Credit cards accepted: American Express, Visa and MasterCard

Rating: ***

JOHN REGER is the Pilot’s restaurant critic. His reviews run Thursdays.