RESTAURANT REVIEW:

During mealtimes at Fashion Island, Roy’s and Flemings get a lot of attention, but they don’t serve lunch so diners usually flock to Café R and D, and French 75 Bistro where lines are not uncommon.  

Chain restaurants El Torito, California Pizza Kitchen and the Cheesecake Factory obviously attract those who prefer comfort over originality.

So where does the Daily Grill fit in to this restaurant potpourri?

I believe it should be one of the first choices for a lunch spot.

Walk into the establishment and if you didn’t know, you would have no clue this is a chain that is in eight states and the District of Columbia.

The three founders wanted the restaurant to appear unique when they opened the first location in Beverly Hills in 1984.

They picked upscale locations and appointed them so they would fit right into the area they serve.

The Fashion Island location is expertly decorated, much like an American grill you would have found in New York, Boston or San Francisco three generations ago.

There are classic-style booths and rich, wooden chairs and tables with white walls and photographs of people and places.

The food is as unique as the décor, with many offerings that show imagination and originality.

My friend wanted a salad and in addition to the four appetizer salads, there are five larger choices.

She had her heart set on a salad the restaurant no longer offered.

It has a certain sentimental value because she had it on the first date with her future husband.

We asked our waiter why the salad was no longer available, but he didn’t seem that interested in our question.

It was one of several personality quirks we noticed with our server who was very competent, but maybe not as personable as other servers.

At first the whole Boo Radley routine was a little off-putting, but then I got used to it and it really kind of fit the establishment’s theme.

My friend’s interest in salads waned after seeing the other selections.

Cobb, Chinese and Caesar were all there, but bored her.

I would have suggested the grilled lime chicken salad that has asparagus and other chopped vegetables, but she isn’t a big fan of that citrus.

Instead she decided on a tuna melt grilled with cheddar — comfort food that never fails her.

If I am going to eat in a classic grill-type restaurant, I want a grill-type sandwich, so I got the Reuben.

One twist was the Dijon mustard added to the sandwich. I think it would have been fine if it were alone, but the Dijon with the sweet dressing confused my taste buds. If I ordered it again I would have requested no mustard.

One side dish we had to try was the macaroni and cheese.

It is baked with three types of cheese, cheddar, Gruyere and Danish fontina, and is incredible. The macaroni was tender but not mushy and soaked in the cheese.

That is one of many comfort foods the restaurant offers. It is known for its chicken pot pie and meatloaf.

The dinner menu has more meat, and seven steaks are offered.

The seafood is limited to trout and salmon. Stick with the red meat and the chicken dishes, which are varied.

Lunch, though, is my favorite here and even though the new Yard House has cut into Daily Grill’s crowd, this place will continue to be popular with those looking for solid food and a casual atmosphere.

DAILY GRILL

Address: 957 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach

Phone: (949) 644-2223

Cuisine: American

Specialty dish: Chicken pot pie and meatloaf

Alcohol served: Full bar

Dress: Casual to dressy

Family friendly: Yes

Credit cards accepted: American Express, Visa and MasterCard

Rating: ** 1/2

JOHN REGER is the Pilot’s restaurant critic. His reviews run Thursdays.