THE GOSSIPING GOURMET: Food takes a back seat at the new Javier’s

Have you been champing at the bit for chimichangas, itching for enchiladas, jonesing for nachos? Were you in a margarita meltdown while waiting for Javier’s to reopen in Crystal Cove?

It seems like the remodel has taken forever but once you see it, you’ll know why.

Designed by Dodd Mitchell, called the “crown prince of restaurant design” by L.A. magazine, this one-time club kid knows what it takes to get people to where the drinks are — fire and water. He has designed such L.A. hot spots as Justin Timberlake’s Chi and Ashton Kutcher’s Dolce as well as the Roosevelt Hotel.

The night sky provides a dramatic backdrop for this eclectic, dramatic jaw-dropping design.

Giant palm trees, lit from below, sway at the entrance while fire flickers inside a ring of 8-foot metal columns that have been cut away to reveal the ascending flames. Walking through the tall archway into the main hall, one is struck by the eccentric light fixtures including two gigantic, embossed black balls, looming overhead. On either side of the hallway are two large partially enclosed outdoor bar areas, rife with plants, black leather banquettes and small cocktail tables. Unusual hanging fixtures provide soft, sexy lighting.

At the far end is a huge bar dominated by an abstract tree, suspended from the ceiling with twisted far-reaching branches. Tall tables and comfortable chairs add even more seating to this leviathan lounge.

A smaller wing on the left contains a dining room featuring a glassed-in fireplace. The other dining room to the right of the bar looks like a room from a Spanish cathedral or castle with rough hewn stone walls, arches, a heavy wood beamed ceiling and multicolored bottle-glass windows. There are soft black leather upholstered raised booths separated by hanging metal grillwork reminiscent of confessional windows and a glass bottle fountain bubbling at one end of the room.

The beautiful ocean-facing patio looks as though it belongs in Cabo, with its curved white stucco walls, classic Mexican leather chairs and more palm trees.

There is an outdoor bar beside a large circular seating area centered around a fire pit. The rest of the patio is an outdoor dining area. These are the best seats in the house if you are there to eat.

It may seem like we have spent an inordinate amount of time on décor but this is the distinctive feature of this hip new addition to The Scene, and it rivals any of the hot new clubs in L.A., which means this is not the place for a quiet dinner. If the noise level is an indication of trendiness, then the new Javier’s is deafeningly where it’s at!

If you want to eat something to soak up the booze or if you are eager to rediscover your old favorites at Javier’s, you’ll be happy to know that the menu is virtually the same.

You will find La Tablita, a wooden platter for two with carne asada or chicken, tortillas, rice and beans and all the condiments you need to make do-it-yourself tacos: guacamole, salsa fresca, jalapeños and cilantro. Grilled steaks and chicken, seafood specialties, Mexican combination plates and a variety of main course salads round out their extensive menu. Some of their house specials are osso bucco in chile tomato sauce or baby back ribs, deep-fried and sautéed in spicy tomato and guajillo sauce or pork chile verde.

The cantina has a limited menu of appetizers, such as ceviche, shrimp cocktail, nachos, taquitos and queso fundido.

Remembering the delicious shrimp ceviche tostadas that we had in the old restaurant, we were eager to try the ceviche de pescado this time.

It surprised us that the traditional elements of chopped jalapeño, cilantro, onion and tomato were absent. The fish had been marinated in lime juice much too long and was tough and almost too acidic to eat. Avocado slices and cilantro sprigs were served on the side, and the waiter plunked a bottle of Tapatio hot sauce on the table. Even though we chopped in the avo and cilantro and added the tasty house salsa and Tapatio, the dish remained unappetizing.

Much better was the Cabo azul, a seafood sampler plate that included: a lobster enchilada, a chile relleno stuffed with shrimp and crab and a shrimp taco. The enchilada was filled with sweet and delicious Maine lobster, but the light, bland pasilla sauce added creaminess without much flavor. The relleno was not battered or fried, which allowed the flavors of the seafood and cheese to shine through. We much prefer this modern take on rellenos because the more traditional battered kind are often dripping with grease. The taco had sweet little shrimp in a flour tortilla, prepared Ensenada style with Mexican crema (like sour cream) and a bit of shredded lettuce. This house special was accompanied by some very rich and delicious black beans.

Mole is one of the most subtle and complex of Mexican sauces. Mole poblano has hints of cinnamon, sesame, a variety of chiles and Mexican chocolate among other ingredients. Here, the sauce is served on chicken breasts. Unfortunately, the chicken was dry and tough, and the sauce lacked complexity.

There are only two desserts. The excellent Mexican style flan is dense, sweet and rich, with a caramel flavored skin on top and a velvet feel on the tongue. The so-called “fried” ice cream is thankfully not fried but comes in a fried bunuelo [a flour tortilla topped with cinnamon and sugar]. The ice cream ball is coated with corn flakes, honey and peanuts. Stick with the flan.

The new Javier’s is simply a phenomenon. The fabulous décor, the landscaping, the gorgeous view, the sexy cantina with fire and water elements everywhere, comprise a scene that is definitely hot, hot, hot! The food and service simply take a back seat to the spectacle.

Make reservations long in advance, or you’ll be part of the large crowd waiting outside the door.

WHAT: Javier’s (949) 494-1239

WHERE: 7832 E. Coast Hwy, Crystal Cove

WHEN: Monday — Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Friday — Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Sunday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

PRICES:

Appetizers: $5-$18

Entrées: $12-$44

Desserts: $5-$6

WINE:

Bottles: $34-$240

By the glass: $9-$16

Corkage Fee: $20

ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at themarkos755@yahoo.com.