RESTAURANT REVIEW:

It always makes me smile when I take my walk on the weekend and I pass a group of people waiting outside a certain diner for breakfast. It has a popular name, so it attracts more people, but they are mostly inlanders who don’t realize there is a better place for breakfast right down the street.

While they sit and wait I complete my 30-minute walk along the greenbelt of Sunset Beach, catching up with the neighbors and petting what seems like 100 dogs. When those duties are complete, I head over to Harry’s Grill for my first meal of the day.

The locals here are territorial and most of them probably would rather the inlanders didn’t know this place so they can keep Harry’s Grill to themselves.

The eatery has been a part of the town since 1997, started by Deno Boosalis, who named it in tribute to his father.

Boosalis has another restaurant in San Pedro and has passed management on to his son, Chris.

What makes this establishment so popular with the locals is the incredible sense of community and the quality of the food, both of which have been attended to by longtime employees.

Manager Armando Ramon is never too busy to say hello to people he knows, despite juggling both an often-full room and the steady flow of drive-through customers.

Head chef Sammy Martinez has made so many countless special dishes or alterations to meals I have had there, I lost count.

The breakfast menu is simple but plentiful. It is easily the most popular meal at this establishment and it is easy to see why.

A board with specials to the right of the cash register informs diners of meals Martinez has come up with for the day. Bone-in ham is a popular one, so is the huevos rancheros, or the chorizo, which is one of my favorites.

The regular menu has two specials and three big breakfasts. The beach special has three eggs, bacon or sausage, and three pancakes.

One of the big breakfasts comes with three eggs, bacon and sausage, two pancakes and hash browns.

There are six omelets available, including a Denver and a chili and cheese. Also several meat-and-egg dishes are on the menu. The pork chop and eggs is a good choice.

The breakfast burrito seems like the size of a baby’s arm and comes with either ham, sausage or bacon, or can be prepared vegetarian-style.

The feature I like the best is they are not particularly messy. I don’t have grease dripping down my fingers like I have had with other breakfast burritos.

The menu is even more extensive for lunch and dinner.

The burgers are delicious and the fries that come with the burger combination are quite good. My neighbor, Diane, loves the salads for their large portions.

There are 16 sandwiches with everything from surprisingly lean pastrami to gyros of either beef or chicken.

They also have a beef dip that is pretty good.

Dinner entrees include a halibut steak, fried chicken and a variety of pasta dishes.

I would recommend two things: the fish tacos, which are unbelievably tasty, and the restaurant’s signature dish, Deno’s Greek chicken. The chicken is a recipe Boosalis came up with himself — a half-chicken, oven-roasted and coated with Greek spices. It is worth trying at least once.

The one secret I probably shouldn’t tell you is the upstairs eating area.

It is a favorite of the locals and provides a great view of the Pacific.

Staring at the water instead of a waiting list at the other place is always more desirable.

Address: 16685 Pacific Coast Hwy., Sunset Beach

Phone: (562) 592-9500

Cuisine: American

Specialty dish: Deno’s Greek chicken

Alcohol served: None

Dress: Beach casual

Family friendly: Children’s menu with five items

Credit cards accepted: Cash only, with an ATM available

Rating: ** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants for the Independent.